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Wildcard Racing #?!?


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Is it possible that the shims were still in good shape and the crank was coming apart? So even after closing it up the thing could still be usable and have good tolerances all around?

 

I've seen guys buy brand new 4mm cranks, assemble the motor and since it wasn't welded, it walks. To correct it they mush it back together and true it all up and check phase then weld. Granted I'm talking motors with not a lot of run time and the shims are still good.

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I've seen far worse practices. Nor am I sure what YGR did. I'm also assuming he did the press and weld like 99% would have done. I can tell you for certain I've pushed some multiple cyld cranks back together that the welds were broke on that the crack lined right back up and I called it good after another high amperage weld.

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I've seen far worse practices. Nor am I sure what YGR did. I'm also assuming he did the press and weld like 99% would have done. I can tell you for certain I've pushed some multiple cyld cranks back together that the welds were broke on that the crack lined right back up and I called it good after another high amperage weld.

Not KOC approved.
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Is it possible that the shims were still in good shape and the crank was coming apart? So even after closing it up the thing could still be usable and have good tolerances all around?

 

I've seen guys buy brand new 4mm cranks, assemble the motor and since it wasn't welded, it walks. To correct it they mush it back together and true it all up and check phase then weld. Granted I'm talking motors with not a lot of run time and the shims are still good.

it was a hotrods rod. not sure if the webs are oem or something else. if oem and they been taken apart several times maybe its possible the holes were wallered out and the interference fit isnt proper anymore, possibly letting things move around but if that happened ill bet that sumbitch vibrated like a mutha. other scenario is someone previously didnt set the width right to begin with. and of course theres the possibility the crank is simply got a million hours and the shims and rod are shot. not sure what the blaster calls for but im sure .040" would be as far as youd want to let it go.

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I've seen far worse practices. Nor am I sure what YGR did. I'm also assuming he did the press and weld like 99% would have done. I can tell you for certain I've pushed some multiple cyld cranks back together that the welds were broke on that the crack lined right back up and I called it good after another high amperage weld.

Would've never happened if he originally had the crank. KOR.
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I took the blaster crank to now the only local machine shop we deal with - had the guys disassemble, inspect and press everything back together in spec. They guy told me everything down to the bearing checked out - I trust his judgement. And I do not have a jig to measure run out - they do. I have a press but that and a few feeler gauges just isnt good enough lol.

 

Anyhow, they guy who did the work ended up buying the crank for his sons blaster build. He was going to weld the pin for strength and reliability, he is happy and so in the end so am I. The side clearance was not the best at .040 but not too bad.  - a "part time employee" was supposed to measure all of those things - he called it good and so I did not question it - its what I get for not checking it myself, better safe than sorry. Nonetheless I refunded the original buyer 100% and things are good - he decided to go +3mm so he would not have to trench the cases and is proceeding with his build.

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And as for Brandon - its already been addressed. I spoke to him several months ago - his work is minimal right now dealing with his fathers accident and running his company. His plate is more than full - could be a while before he can come back full force. Very good dude nonetheless, Brandon turned out lots of impressive builds.

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