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Ac Dc Question


Nighty

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Lo all,

 

I am working on a street legal banshee,

For my battery to charge i will need dc power so i took my

multimeter thingy and started to test voltages,

but no mather what i try i wont get any readings.

 

Even if i try directly from my lights connectors i wont get DC power!

The banshee service manual says i should try dc 20v and should get a value of around 11.8-14,5 volts

 

I used 2 digital multimeters, one of these also has an AC option and when i try that i DO get a reading of 11,8 to 14,5 volts.

 

IF my banshee is delivering AC power instead of DC power,

howcome my lights are burning?

 

Any idea's?

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That's because lights don't care if it is AC or DC voltage. And your shee does in fact put out AC voltage. in order for you to run a battery, you will have to purchase a voltage rectifier from the local electronics store, and isolate the battery from the rest of the electrical system.

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do you need to have a battery to get it registered?

 

I needed dc for my fuel pump and i used a regulator/rectifier with battery eliminator from an XR250

 

When you convert it to dc you will need some sort of battery or battery eliminator to keep the voltage consant.

 

Note - a battery eliminator is nothing flash, is just a capacitor.

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A Battery = long discharge time, relatively constant current,needed to power fuel pump . All you need is a voltage rectifer (4 diodes, bridge) and about 30 minutes hook up a battery, no capacitor required. I just did this hooking up a battery for my nitrous kit.

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You all seam to be missing the point.

 

The bike does not need a battery to start up so why have 1? When you turn your bike off you dont want anything running.

 

Using a cap instead of a battery will supply a smooth and consistant voltage. The reg/rec/cap that i used came off a 12v xr250 which has all the indicators, brake, stop, headlight and other elec gear and it works fine on the xr250 and i know for a fact that it works well on my bike for running a fuel pump.

 

At idle it drops down to 10.5 volts but you dont need full fuel pressure at idle and nor do you need full light output at idle because your obviously not moving if your idleing.

 

Bring the revs up to about 2-3 thousand and your at full voltage of 14.3v all the way to peak rpm.

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You all seam to be missing the point. 

 

The bike does not need a battery to start up so why have 1?  When you turn your bike off you dont want anything running.

 

Using a cap instead of a battery will supply a smooth and consistant voltage.  The reg/rec/cap that i used came off a 12v xr250 which has all the indicators, brake, stop, headlight and other elec gear and it works fine on the xr250 and i know for a fact that it works well on my bike for running a fuel pump.

 

At idle it drops down to 10.5 volts but you dont need full fuel pressure at idle and nor do you need full light output at idle because your obviously not moving if your idleing.

 

Bring the revs up to about 2-3 thousand and your at full voltage of 14.3v all the way to peak rpm.

I agree, unless your trying to run more than one thing of the new circuit, then you should go with a battery so as not to put too much drain on the cap...

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lol well i now have one of those diode bridges hooked up.

the ac is now dc.

 

my normal lights are hooked up before the diodebride so the normal banshee lights only light up when the engine is running.

 

all the other stuff (blinking crap honky thing, city lights)

are behind the diodebridge.. but the battery will probably help out the diodebridge.

since i heared a diodebridge needs to be cooled if great currents are flowing.

 

oh and the stock banshee voltage regulator also rectifies the max voltage to about 14.8 volts so its all great!!!

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