Root_Doc Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 If everything ohmed out properly on my electrical system, with no spark, or sometimes very very weak spark, would it be the CDI or the stator. I did test the stator according to Clymer, but I have read that it could still be the prob. Ignition coil good, on/off switch good, stator good (according to testability). I also get no energy to the lighting system at all. Normally when I kick it with the lights on, they at least try to come on until it starts then they are full on. Is this indicative of stator also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 Make sure your flywheel keyway isnt broken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 Trouble shooting list -Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically) -Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate) -Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?) -Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs) -Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through -Connectors cleaned and greased -New spark plugs -Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in -New plug boots -Ohmed and tried known coil -Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up -Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly -Disconnected the tether switch -Test kill switch -Swap coil -Swap CDI -Swap stator Random stuff from electrical FAQ: At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 Good info^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) Tricked carbines list does work for that. Helped me out on stator problem. Stator has two sets of coils on it. I believe one is for lights and such, other is for spark. Mine I could see the spark coils went bad. Think it got too hot and failed. Lights worked when I kicked it over. A cheap multimeter from Lowes, home depot or menards shouldn't cost more than 20 bucks. Edited December 28, 2014 by salmon_slayer06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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