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Sabotaged 250R... Options


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of course your not trying to save the bearings. the main concearn is not damaging the cases or fuk up the bearing bore. thats why you heat the cases in a oven to around 250ish. that reduces your interference fit and allows the bearing to pop out with little effort. pressing them out isnt much better than hammering them out, either way your still trying to force the bearing out of a .003" or so interference fit.

 

if you look at the bottom of the shift drum bearing it likely has a lip between the bearing and case. this is where your BB puller will grab. whether theres a inner race or not makes no difference. you can probly also pop the needles out and try grabbing it at the top lips but usually those type of bearings have a larger lip at the bottom specifically for grabbing with a puller

 

the tab screws have loctitie from the factory. heating them will do no good as that only makes the screw bigger. a qaulity impact driver like snapon and 1 or 2 taps from a dead blow rubbet mallet is all that should be needed. if you strip out the philips head youll be fuked big time

 

if you dont have the proper tools you might want to find somebody that does

Edited by registered user
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of course your not trying to save the bearings. the main concearn is not damaging the cases or fuk up the bearing bore. thats why you heat the cases in a oven to around 250ish. that reduces your interference fit and allows the bearing to pop out with little effort. pressing them out isnt much better than hammering them out, either way your still trying to force the bearing out of a .003" or so interference fit.

 

if you look at the bottom of the shift drum bearing it likely has a lip between the bearing and case. this is where your BB puller will grab. whether theres a inner race or not makes no difference. you can probly also pop the needles out and try grabbing it at the top lips but usually those type of bearings have a larger lip at the bottom specifically for grabbing with a puller

 

the tab screws have loctitie from the factory. heating them will do no good as that only makes the screw bigger. a qaulity impact driver like snapon and 1 or 2 taps from a dead blow rubbet mallet is all that should be needed. if you strip out the philips head youll be fuked big time

 

if you dont have the proper tools you might want to find somebody that does

 

 

Yes I used an impact screwdriver (although a cheaper one than a snap on), didn't do shit, those screws are in there damn tight.  I have removed red loctighted screws that came out easier before, and this DOES require heat to melt the loctight.... I might have to try drilling them out with one of those screw extractor bits, but I'm trying to contact some places to see what it's going to cost me.

 

I don't want to spend a fortune on this thing as I just want to get it rebuilt like new then sell it.  Whoever put sand in my engine is must die!

 

Can you please link the proper blind bearing puller that can grip the needle bearing?  I didn't measure the ID but I think it's about 2-3"  I'm thinking a set like this would work, but it's $200 http://www.amazon.com/Internal-Extractor-Bearing-Puller-Remove/dp/B00KOBRQ1Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1433301765&sr=1-2&keywords=3%22+blind+bearing+puller

 

Again I did heat the cases (not with an oven, with a torch)  Heating in an oven would also heat up the bearing itself, you don't want to heat the bearing according to everything I read, just the case so it can expand and the bearing falls out. 

 

I watched several youtube videos showing people doing this, however it did not work for me, so I had to tap the bearings out with a socket on the inner races while the case around them was heated.  Putting the case in the oven would not have don't shit if the torch didn't work IMO.

Edited by Justintoxicated
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the oven works because the expansion of steel and aluminum is different. trust me ive done a bunch of hondas. after a few you can do em in your sleep.

 

BB pullers aint cheap. especially a high qaulity one. most BB puller sets probly wont have that large of a collet included, so youll have to measure the bearing and buy that collet seperate. for a one time use i would probly contact a legitimate shop and have them pull the bearings out. putting new ones back in you can do yourself, if you use some good judgment

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I'll try the oven soon, but I don't see it working any differently than heating the aluminum case around the bearing with a torch...

 

At this point I'm tempted to just give the cases and all the parts to the shop and tell them to finish it for me.  250R transmission sucks to disassemble compared to the banshee.  I still need to buy a new counter-balancer and bearing, a few bolts that stripped for the motor mounts, and a bunch of other misc stuff...  I think I might have been better off just selling the rolling chassis or just throwing the whole thing in the trash minus a few parts.  I just don't have the time for it.

Edited by Justintoxicated
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Im tellin ya the oven is the prefered method but if you dont believe me you can ask on the honda sites and they will say the same thing. Aotopart stores sometimes rent tools. They may have a bb puller

 

I tried o'rielly they didnt' have one, need to check pepboys and auto zone still.

 

 I'll try the oven, i do believe you, I just don't have high hopes :)

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