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Posted

just picked up a 99 with t5s and Toomey 2into1 filter I just pulled the carbs apart tonight and it has 270 mains and 30 pilots needles are air screws are at 1 1/2 3rd groove from the bottom I live at 750ft above sea level and 70 degree weather carbs are synced the best I can do with no sync tool picking one up soon should the needles have something stamped into them anyways it starts easy cold and warm just doesn't feel all there when full throttle and I noticed the right cylinder isn't hitting as much as the left when its idleing  the right pipe smokes more and the pipe doesn't get as hot as the left till I ride it a bit plugs look the same color but the right plug is deff wetter when I idle it for a min and I cut a little off the plug wire and put the cap back on still didn't change the miss should I have 300 mains and what would cause a miss at a idle just put new plugs in it thanks im new too  the twin always had dirtbikes so this twin business is pretty new to me should I just by a Toomey jet kit or piece it together myself thanks hopefully someone can help

Posted

I cleaned both jets on both carbs and ill switch the wires today after work and need to get my ohm meter back do you think the pilots are too big and should I bump up my mains or worrie about the miss first before anything thanks a lot

Posted (edited)

I had to work late today no chance tonight if it rains tomorrow like typical mi I will check the reeds and compression do you think it is best to check compression with no reeds in or with the carbs on or does it even matter I should know tomorrow hopefully I didn't pick up some ones junk I got it for a deal 1500 but with my luck it probly needs a top end and how bad are rear axle bearings to change and thanks for all the help and any help finding a front rim would be lots of help

Edited by awblackmamba
Posted (edited)

I think I found the issue tell me what you think thanks for telling me to take the reeds out etr174 reeds looked great checked compression 105 on the left side and 85 on the right when I took the reeds out I looked at the cylinder and found the left in good condition and the right missing the whole intake bridge so I guess I found the miss thank a lot my next question is do I mill my stock head or buy a cool head because ill be going cub or serval pretty soon and are the vitos pistons any better than the regular wiesco pistons any help would be great this is the point I either wait to get the cub or just port the stockers and has anyone ridin the serval and the cub cause i want to know how bad the cub is in the tight stuff rarely woods ride but i think i can keep it clutched up enough to keep moving im used to riding 125s and 250s so it shouldn't be that big of a deal  

IMAG0238 (2)

Edited by awblackmamba
Posted

Sorry for the long response. 105 and 85 isnt very good, especially the 85 so a new top end rebuild is needed. A lot of people run Cool Heads, do some research or ask on a different thread about the head. Pistons however I can talk about. Vito's pistons are more for stock applications. If you are going to run a Cub or Serval soon then go with Wiseco. Just notiuced the piston you posted, yeah that piston is torn up bad! Top end rebuild time for sure.

Posted

If I split the case I don't know if I want to get the stock crank welded up or just buy a 4mm welded already what would you do.

I have a noss head coming in the mail how much would custom domes for a 4mm stock cylinder cost.

Im pretty sure he put that piston in there the stock head had no pitting and the crank looks great. The only thing it had was a drag mark like a stuck ring in the cylinder

Don't you think there would be more evidence of damage especially in the bore

Posted

Well the broken skirt off the piston would be down by the crank in pieces. If you want more power, go for the 4 mil. I am unsure about dome sizes, trickedcarbine might be able to help you with that.

Posted

Today I split the cases and found nothing in the bottom end. Im gonna put crank seals and shifter and sprocket seals in it while its apart.

What is your recommended case sealant?

And what about these pins on the crank bearings every one is good except the pto one it looks like a numb is this normal

Also should I get it trued and welded or just run it till next spring trying to save for a real top end.

Does the stock Yamaha chain have no master link if so it has the original chain on it I cut it off with the grinder.

Posted

Today I split the cases and found nothing in the bottom end. Im gonna put crank seals and shifter and sprocket seals in it while its apart.

What is your recommended case sealant?

And what about these pins on the crank bearings every one is good except the pto one it looks like a numb is this normal

Also should I get it trued and welded or just run it till next spring trying to save for a real top end.

Does the stock Yamaha chain have no master link if so it has the original chain on it I cut it off with the grinder.

New bearings ( do not reuse, new ones will have an O ring to keep them from spinning. If not, a dab of LOCTITE works)

Weld crank

Full clip for pto crank bearing

Maybe mod the tranny

Look over all clutch components with a fine tooth comb

 

1211 three bond for case sealer.

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