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finishing my long serval build


RagunCajun

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you wont need a billet stator with transmission support for stock arm in dirt.  you also wont need a engine stay thats bolt on like that either with all the motor mounts installed like stock and all 4 side spacers on the main mounts..  i personally think that motor stay style looks goofy  but thats just me.  if you want to stay with stock covers hell rock em!

 

the slingshot your probably going to have to ditch or remove a lot of the weight from it to get the bike to shift.  depending on what kind of load you put on the motor.  dirt riding and blowing tires off everywhere it probably wont be too bad.

 

fox makes a piggy back shock for the rear that seems to work great.  only rears i have personally rode on were axis, PEP, and marvins.  but marvins on drag only and they suck for anything other than that...

 

being that big of a motor and i'm guessing set up for tq when the bike does hook its going to be a bitch to control.  id imagine a +4 will make the bike much more fun to ride.  but good thing is you should be able to just tractor it around and not really need to rev the bawlzz off it just to get it to move. 

 

of course this is all my opion based on what i found out riding in dirt with high hp motors. 

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Thank you can. Yes the motor was made to be a tractor and not have to Rev the piss out of it. I've only ridden 4mil cub as cast on race fuel about 4 years ago. Thats the only other banshee more powerful than mine I've ridden. So I dont know what to expect from power delivery. I hated the power delivery on that cub though.

 

I dont mind buying a +4 swing arm but I want to make sure I can still do donuts and slide the rear sound at will. Will a +4 be too long for that?

 

Also what type of tires that will hook best meanwhile letting me slide around. I dont mind if I have to cut every other row off like my Knarlys. Id assume id need a 22" maybe Ambush?

 

I'm going to go with the elka rear shock as well as the front. All stage 3. Looks like BVC has a sale going on.

 

I still have my pro wedge 2's for when I want to hook hard and flip over backwards.

 

I will see how the bike shifts. I will take weight off if needed. However, if it gets too bad I'll put my dune able override back in. Hopefully I can shift slow and it will be fine. I predict no traction either way. Hopefully this motor wasn't overkill lol. Id went bigger if I didn't have to get matoon cases. Bigger is better right :(

 

I'm not sure what gearing I'll need. I'm going to put a 16t front and get a few rear sprockets. I've learned with my old flotek engine, it's just something you have to play around with. It struggled with 15/41 on pro wedges in 5th but was perfection in a drag race 1-4 which is exactly how I set it up. It took time though.

Edited by RagunCajun
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+4 will be just fine. I'm at +6 on my 465 and cut donuts with ease and is easy to ride trails still. 22" cut ambush work well 1st-3rd but they get squirrelly after that IMO. I like the ohtsu mr501 for an all around trail tire as long as it's not wet grass lol.

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That's great to hear griff. It seems fireball racing makes steering stems and swing arms. Ill have to give them a call and order those items as well. I'm sure my steering stem bearings/bushing(whatever is it) is corroded into pieces by now.

 

Who sells +3+1 stainless brake lines? ill want some for my swing arm too.

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anyone that builds arms can get you the braided lines.  they are a pretty much must in my opinion for modified bikes.  you can be really touchy with the rear and the fronts,  they will have a much much firmer feel.  most times you can one finger the fronts if needed.  if you going this far on it  why cheap out on the brake lines. 

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I Have Elka Stage 2+C's up front and a rebuilt factory rear on the back.  Noleen J6 did the seal head swap, revalving and respringing on my rear.  Very happy with how it performs. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Well, after a house finish being built, wedding and layoff within 6 months this year, it seems i can make some progress.

 

I made a list of what i need. Id like for some people to look it over and see what's missing. I know im missing lots of things but cant think of anything. it's been about 6+ years since i did a frame up build on this bike.

 

 

-Stage 3 Elka shocks front and rear  $900-$1000 for 165 to 170lb rider
-Fireball Racing +4 swingarm(and carrier etc) $650 shipped


-ebay radiator $51
-powder coat the frame locally $150-$250
-new plastics from Maier(RMATV) front race cut $104, rear $238, tank cover $79, radiator cover $81
- 7/8 handle bars $70
-22x10x9 for rear ambunsh on a 9x8 wheel
-23x7-10 front ambush on a 10x5 wheel


RagunCajun: so 23x7x10 will fit on your recommended 10x 5 correct?
ZillaFreak: yes
ZillaFreak: 23x7 is the tire size, 23" diameter, 7" wide, 10" is the wheel diameter
ZillaFreak: you want your rim to be narrow than the tire, so 5<7

-front bumper- http://prm-atv.com/index.php/yamaha/banshee-yfz350/product/2757-summit-bumper-banshee-yfz350.html
-rear bumper- http://prm-atv.com/yamaha/banshee-yfz350/category/207-grab-bars.html

-chain
-16t sprocket
41t rear
-front and rear brake pads
-LED lights

-Chariot thumb throttle to open my 39's.

-Wiring harness from the guy on FB that makes them for banshees. I forgot who but i have it written down somewhere.

I'm going to need new bearings for the chassis all around and brakes and lines. Not sure where to get those at. I think RMATV has all of that. I would like to do stainless steel braided lines.

 

so far i have nothing used for the bike. The goal is all NEW stuff.

Edited by RagunCajun
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I bet you are going to need a 17 tooth front sprocket.

 

I would get the fat bars for handle bars but that's my preference

 

Have a tether?

 

Using the chariot stator cover with bearing support?

 

Get a cotton branch case saver

 

 

 

 

Sent From My Trail Bike

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With a 17t, you think ill have to give it a lot of rpm or slip the clutch alot to get her going in first taking off slow? We should have the same power off idle I assume.

 

I do have a tether.

 

I forgot about the chariot cover with bearing support. I do want that. Ill get one unfinished so I can powder coat it.

 

Ill google that case saver to see who sells them and get one.

Edited by RagunCajun
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