Burke Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 you may be overtired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 From my limited knowledge on the subject, I have always been told that you want everything parallel with the ground... bottom of the frame, a arms, swingarm... your ability to work the clutch will also play a big part in itbeen thinking about the concept of everything being paralel for a bit. What about when you run tall tires like 79 or 81 ro. The swinger will run uphill to the tire. Would you set up on stands with no tires first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 been thinking about the concept of everything being paralel for a bit. What about when you run tall tires like 79 or 81 ro. The swinger will run uphill to the tire. Would you set up on stands with no tires first?A -6 degree angle will cure that. That's kinda the standard in a lot of places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Lots of good tips so far! We use moveable ballast in all our race vehicles. This is a weight bar we made for the quad. It fastens to the front lower bumper mounts on a stock frame. This is where you want it for your issue. It can be used in other places also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEEBEEFM2M Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 how much does that weigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 We set the weights up based on different factors. We generally move weight around in 2 lb. - 10 lb. increments in different places on the quad. Here's an example: pulling low 1.30 60's with front brakes on bike. Took the front brakes off bike went to mid 1.40 60's. We placed the weight bar on & went back to low 1.30 60's with no front brakes. The bar is made up to allow adjustment of weight with lead shot. We used a section of black iron pipe threaded on both ends. One end cap is tack welded on, the other is just screwed on to allow shot to be added or removed. There's many different ways to make/use ballast & adding weight in the right places can make the quad quicker. IMO, minimum weight to use without a wheelie bar would be 5lbs. & make it so you could add weight to around 8 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEEBEEFM2M Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 interestingVery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 We set the weights up based on different factors. We generally move weight around in 2 lb. - 10 lb. increments in different places on the quad. Here's an example: pulling low 1.30 60's with front brakes on bike. Took the front brakes off bike went to mid 1.40 60's. We placed the weight bar on & went back to low 1.30 60's with no front brakes. The bar is made up to allow adjustment of weight with lead shot. We used a section of black iron pipe threaded on both ends. One end cap is tack welded on, the other is just screwed on to allow shot to be added or removed. There's many different ways to make/use ballast & adding weight in the right places can make the quad quicker. IMO, minimum weight to use without a wheelie bar would be 5lbs. & make it so you could add weight to around 8 lbs. did you notice any quicker e.t.'s/mph gain with front brakes removed after you got the 60's back in the low .30's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 We couldn't believe we lost the 60' with removing the brakes, but it was all about the weight being in the right places. So, no we didn't gain anything with brakes gone & the ballast weight right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOUTHTHIRTY Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Lots of good tips so far! We use moveable ballast in all our race vehicles. This is a weight bar we made for the quad. It fastens to the front lower bumper mounts on a stock frame. This is where you want it for your issue. It can be used in other places also. Looks like a pipe bomb..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOUTHTHIRTY Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 did you notice any quicker e.t.'s/mph gain with front brakes removed after you got the 60's back in the low .30's?Bucky.... u could use about 40lbs.. up front. .. wheelie monster 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Bucky.... u could use about 40lbs.. up front. .. wheelie monsterhaha. just thinking about taking them off for the track. Trying to dip into the .80's. Can use all the help i can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTmachining Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Lots of good tips so far! We use moveable ballast in all our race vehicles. This is a weight bar we made for the quad. It fastens to the front lower bumper mounts on a stock frame. This is where you want it for your issue. It can be used in other places also. I'm sure u have used it in other places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEEBEEFM2M Posted October 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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