lowidenfast Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I put a new chain and sprockets on my bike and took it for a test spin late last evening. When I launched, there was an awful sound, almost sounded like the chain was jumping teeth on the sprocket and it jerked really hard. I checked everything out and noticed the rear hub has a bunch of play in it so I tightened the shit out of the axle nut thinking that was the solution but it still did it after that so I looked online and found that the hub has splines. Now I'm thinking that I need to tear mine apart and check them before I go ordering another hub. My question is, how exactly do I get it off to check that is the issue? Break the chain, remove the axle nut and then knock it loose - right? Or is there more to it? Just never deal with it before and I cannot find my damn Clymers manual at the moment. Trying to have this thing ready for Badlands ride on 10/4 and going to be out of town a lot between now and then so I don't have a lot of time to diagnose/fix this problem. I searched and saw a few threads about people having a hard time getting theirs to break loose but not really any "how to's" that I saw. Just wondering what input/advice you guys have for me before I start taking shit apart ....again! Also, I didn't see many options on the web for these hubs, mostly stockers on Ebay and a $200 billet from Lonestar, I believe it was. Who sells these things? Looked at Cascade and fast but nothing on their websites Thanks in advance guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Thanks. Is it common that the hubs wear out? Mine is aluminum so hopefully the splines on the hub wore and not the splines on the Axcaliber +4" axle.... Also, should the brake rotor have any play in it? It move the same amount as the sprocket hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I wish I had better news, but you're on the right track. Pretty much the only way to check it is to take it apart. As for options, not many good ones out there. OEM, but most are so old they are whomped out. The LSR stuff is nice but it's pricey. Lots of inbetween brands but none that strike me as worthy. No BOSS junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Damnit, that sucks. I don't know how old the axle is. Came on the bike, I've only had it since March. I'll tear it all apart tonight and hope for the best. If my axle splines are stripped, I'll ghetto rig the shit out of it (JB weld maybe?) to get by until Winter! I'll report my findings once it's off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Before I take anything apart, I'm going to mark across the hub and onto the rear housing then go do a launch and see if it is actually spinning on the axle I was hoping to replace my stocker for a roundhouse style swinger but I was NOT hoping to replace my damn axle. Happy thoughts for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 i got similar problem. sprocket hub piece is alittle loose. hoping i can just tighten the big nuts and be good. now to find a wrench that big Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I used a giant pipe wrench and just wrapped a shop rag around the nut so as not to gouge it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 ya i dont have a giant pipe wrench. probly head over to sears or ace hardware and see what they got Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03DMshee Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 No jb weld shit...used axle and hub are cheap as hell on here. ..look around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 No jb weld shit...used axle and hub are cheap as hell on here. ..look around Yeah, I wouldn't really do that. Are you saying that I can get a good used +4" axle cheap? That's a relief because I have not priced them. Hoping I don't need one anyway. Think positive, think positive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 i got a ridgid pipe wrench from the hardware store. it was just the inner nut was a bit loose. tightened it alittle and all is well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 OK, I worked on this issue last night but to no avail. The only thing I am positive of is that the hub splines are not the problem. I marked with a sharpie on the hub, axle nut and axle itself last night. Went and ripped on it and it did the same snapping sound/jerking but the marks stayed aligned. Tightening the axle nut was the answer to the free play that I was seeing on Sunday Now, backing up, this all started when I put a new chain and sprockets on the bike this weekend. The chain adjustment was all they way out/extended to take up as much slack as possible but the chain was still a little loose but didn't seem like I had enough slack to take two more lengths out. I decided to go ahead and test ride and the popping/jerking on launches was first discovered. I was a little apprehensive about taking more lengths out of the chain so I bought a chain breaker an riveting tool which, if i understand correctly, will allow me to add lengths back into the chain should I need to. Now the chain is actually too tight. I removed a roller to give it a little slack and just test it with a few more launches to see if the slack in the chain was the issue. I thought for sure, with it as tight as it is, that the chain would not be able to jump the sprocket teeth. Took another rip around the yard, same thing still happened. Makes me wonder if the chain is actually jumping teeth since it does it now with the chain really tight. What else could it be? Will a new chain stretch and make noises like that under heavy stress (doubtful, It's pretty intense) So, now I'm just more confused that I was yesterday when I started this thread. The chain cannot stay as tight as it is so I proceeded to add the lengths back but I cannot seem to figure out how to add a length back to the chain. Even if/when I do, the chain will be too long. What gives? Even more concerning is that I still don't know what the hell is going on with the loud popping sound and yanking on hard launches. Only happens on 1st gear launches and going into second most of the time. If I just ride and rip around, it's not even an issue but drag racing (an imaginary opponent) is where it crops up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 No, I just had the clutch side cover off to change the shift star and put fresh oil in it. No issue there. It is a loud popping sound coming from the chain/sprocket/rear end area. It does it on hard launches from first gear and into second if I am drag racing (under full power). It sounds like the damn chain has just broken or i've ripped a tooth off of the sprocket every time. On 1st gear launches it can pop 2 or three times and then once or twice more when slamming it into second. If I had not tightened the chain to the extent that it is now (too tight) by taking out two more links, I would think that the chain is jumping teeth on the sprocket Even if/when I figure this out, I don't understand how to deal with the chain length issue. It's either too long with the chain adjustment all the way out or it's too short (tight) with the chain adjustment all the way in and the roller behind my left foot removed. I actually had to connect the master link with just a few links on the sprocket and roll it to get the chain on the bike with the extra links removed. I understand I cannot ride with it this way or I'll break the chain when the shocks are compressed but I was trying to isolate the variables and see if the loose chain was actually jumping sprocket teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 I wondered if the combo of 13/41 could be problematic I went from 14/42 to 13/41. My rear sprocket needed replacing but the front one is fine. Maybe I'll put the 14T front back on and try that out. Hopefully I can add a link back to the chain. Is that not what a chain riveting tool is supposed to do? It was badass for removing a link and assembling the master link but I can't figure out the riveting part. If it cannot be used to put the 2 links back in, I just burned through $80 + a $70 chain tool that I thought was going to save me money. I'll be returning that thing if I can't use it to add a link and putting the money toward another chain! Rear adjustment is tight and adjusted evenly. Double checked it yesterday. Thanks for the thoughts/ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 I did get all new sprockets and chain at the same time and the only thing worn was the rear. Both chains laid out in the garage floor are the same length and both measure 12.5" across a span of 21 pins per the Clymer's manual. I verified through the part numbers that the sprockets are for a 520 chain. The chain is 520 (stamped on every length). Tightening the axle nut was the cure the the previously mentioned free play in the brake rotor and sprocket hub but the issue persists. The chain adjustment is tight and properly aligned. The wheel hubs are tight. only thing i forgot to check was to see if the tires are spinning on the rims per ride.race.live. I doubt that could make this sound/jerking but I'd like to verify regardless Crazy to think that just two less teeth (one front, one rear) can make such a huge difference in chain free play to the point that the chain is too loose with the additional lengths (same # as was previoulsy on it) and adjustment all the way out but then it's way too tight when I remove two lengths and move the adjustment all the way forward. Even had to remove a roller with the shorter chain length. No doubt I will have to get different sprockets just to make the chain length work. Guess i'll order up a new sprocket combination and start from there. More troubling than wasting money on sprockets is that I still haven't figured out the problem. No way it could have been jumping teeth with the chain as tight as it was before I added a second master to bring it back to the same length/number on lengths as the old chain. Still think there is an underlying issue outside of matching up a sprocket combo that works with chain length but I guess it'll solve at least one problem. It sucks that there aren't any reputable shops near me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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