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Posted

Hey guys, quick background before I get to the problem. I recently fixed the idle gear and put in a new clutch, did everything to specs, used 3 HD and 3 regular springs and it was adjusted right. First few days it was great, then I noticed it was starting to be alittle jerky when I shifted from neutral to first, then it got real bad so I decided to take off the clutch over.

Now here's the problem, 2 broken inner hub bolt holes and 2 other spring screws had started to back out. And the idle gear once again lost it's clip. I have a new inner basket and idle gear ready to go. I know the springs are suppose to be tighten to 7 lb/ft but I'm wondering what I can do to make sure this doesn't happen again. And if anyone might have and insight into what happened the first time.

 

Thanks

Troy

Posted

I can torque it to specs so should I do that or just do hand tight on all of them? also should I just use all stock springs or can I stick with the 3hd and 3 regular?

Posted (edited)

banshee hub appears to be the same essential design as every other 2t engine on the planet. ive never had a problem with them bolts going loose with 7ftlbs and no loctite on other engines. the problem with doing them hand tight is most people cant gauge torq very well by hand and thats how them bolts get stripped out.

Edited by registered user
Posted

Yeah, the busing was fine before but now it's crap, I have a new one to put in.

 

so should I use loctite or not?

 

The bolts didn't strip the threads the thing the bolts go into sheared right off

Posted

Blue lock tight on the screws handtight with a short ratchet..maybe with a bump for a little extra.. The idle gear will be fine with or without a clip

 

Also as cotton mentioned, Do I need a new clip or will I be fine without it?

Posted

Got it back together, new clip, found the washer so I put that back on as well. No more sounds but I have to open it back up cause it's slipping real bad now, must have over adjusted the pressure plate.

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