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Here's a long list of stuff to check that I keep on my phone. If it's not on here, you don't have a problem.

 

Trouble shooting list

 

Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically)

Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators)

Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even)

Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through

Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased

New spark plugs

Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in

New plug boots

Ohmed and tried several known coils

Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up

Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted

Disconnected the tether switch

Test kill switch

Swap coil

Swap CDI

Swap stator

 

At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run.

 

You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails.

 

your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated.

 

the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

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Nope on your own around here. I've asked the same question two different ways. Crazy.

What I was getting at is as soon as that list of things to check out and test comes up no one ever says what the results were...if you follow that check list word for word...you are gonna have a running bike at somepoint throughout it...

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He clearly asked about the stator is it suppose to look like that could that be his problem. Yes looks burnt ?  That could be his problem. Does it test out ? Do you know how to test them ?     banghead  

  As a example Mr. 1635497Banshee I really don't now shit about these things.  Thank god I only wasted 5 buck on this site.  :jesterlaugh:

 

 My question to get my big list was can running on a coil knowing your stator was bad fry the coil ?

Because I've seen it's really rare to fry out a coil. about 50 times.

 

oh and my bike ran without the stator obviously from what I wrote above just no lights was all. fired first kick every time.

So you might also have something else going on. If you dare to ask see if when a stator goes bad if theres a likely hood of it taking something with it. " frying out anything else"  Check the list first :thanks:

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Hey just a joke come on love ya guys. :notworthy:        But some one could have corrected me said hey jack ass the bike wont run without a stator. I said ive never had a quad i was told the stator didn't work that's why no lights from the guy i got it from the thing ran like a well banshee.  I've dealt with thing with batteries  yeah some have stators but on them very rare they go bad.

Yes it did have what he needed in the  banshee program guide  but again he asked if it looked normal.  

and 91coupmike It's called a donation. if i paid 15 could have got some stickers. :bunny:  

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