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Looking for help in D/FW tx.


Zedrone

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^ that

Give this random list a go

 

Trouble shooting list

 

Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically)

Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators)

Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even)

Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through

Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased

New spark plugs

Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in

New plug boots

Ohmed and tried several known coils

Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up

Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted

Disconnected the tether switch

Test kill switch

Swap coil

Swap CDI

Swap stator

 

At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run.

 

You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails.

 

your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated.

 

the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

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