possum Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 once you get a lil power mattoon back plate is only way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberlez Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Installed new basket, inner hub, pressure plate, clutch, pancake bearing, and lock out...still having the same rolling problem when clutch is pulled in reving it up and not having crisp shifts. I adjusted the screw on the pancake bearing until it i could feel it touch the ball and rod. The rolling problem gets better the tighter i adjust the clutch but then the shifting seems to get worse. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Cable? Actuator? Adjustment at the perch? The tighter you adjust the pancake the more it'll disengage. Your shifts shouldn't get any worse. Did you check your eccentric? The shift shaft? Is it an over ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberlez Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 No its not an override. I havent checked the actuator, perch, eccentric...Dont know much about them lol guess i better do some reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberlez Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 What do you look for on those things? how do you know if they are wore out or need adjusted. My book doesnt go into detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 I adjusted the screw on the pancake bearing until it i could feel it touch the ball and rod. Definitely not the correct way to adjust the pancake bearing. Inspect the actuator and adjust the pancake correctly and see if your problem goes away. If you have a Clymer manual, it's on page 69. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberlez Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Shifting has gotten better. I think all the new parts finally got settled in. Still having the roll with clutch pulled in and reving it up. Again new basket with cushions, inner hub, plates, pressure plate. Added pancake bearing and lockout. Adjusted the actuator and clutch perch as per the book shows. Pulled actuator out and it looked good as well as the rod and ball. Stumped. I used to run 75w gear saver oil but just switched and tried 10w30 motor oil as the book recommends. This made it shift better I believe but possibly made the roll worse?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberlez Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Also removed clutch cable and held it up next to a new one. Wasn't stretched out. Could the old one be stretching when its on the bike and pulling in the clutch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberlez Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 If you replaced everything and are sure it's adjusted properly there isn't much more any one can do for you. But the fact that everything is new and you are still having problems tells me something is fucky. If it ain't the parts, it's you. Not bashing, just saying that if everything is new, and you still have issues you need to take it apart and start over piece by piece with the clymer till it's right. All to often guys start a thread stating that they've done everything correct. Ten pages later, they find out it's exactley what some one said on the first. Check, double check, triple check. Always give it the most redundant over kill attitude and you'll know it's right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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