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First Banshee (non-running) So MANY questions


Ragar

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So, I picked up a 1987 Banshee for $500

The guy i got it from knew nothing about it other then it was his brothers and he parked it and never ran it, and was just getting rid of the things that were sitting around after he passed. Thats the story anyways.

 

The motor doesn't roll over. Top end Is seized due to rust, still working them off,

Took the Clutch Side cover off and looked into the trans gears and All that side is great. Looks like new tbh ha!

 

The rough part is when i too the Magneto Side apart and saw it was FULL of water up to the top.

 

I still haven't gotten the top end off  to check how the crank looks, but with that side full of water and rusted I'm sure its rusted to.... i think the only way that much water could get into that side would be threw the crank case.. right?

 

Ive been after a banshee for AGES AND AGES

I was hoping this would just need a top end. But more then likely  might need a crank too.

I have a budget and just would love to get her running.

 

so the main questions are...

It needs a magneto. I see the Caltric one for $85  any experience with them?

 

I saw this on Ebay and 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-4MM-STROKE-ENGINE-REBUILD-KIT-CRANK-PISTONS-SEALS-GASKETS-65-00MM-/161262881627?_trksid=p2054897.l5659

 

Would it be best to get the stroker kit and run the spacer till i can afford to get the Ports fixed to the stroker? or would i be best off running a stock stroke? I can seem to find an answer lol.

 

I do want to invest into this guy, but Id like to be able to ride it asap.

With the complete engine overhaul i cant do a port job yet.

SO would it be of any advantage to do this or should i just get a stock Crank till i can do it all?

 

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Not big. Basically that Kit i posted is it. for now....

 

Id love to go all out eventually. 

 

But extra $300 plus for port work, and a Cool Head is kind of a bit much atm. So will the stroker kit work as bolt in till i can get the stroker head and port work to match? 

 

I can do all the motor work myself easy enough.

I do have access to a mill and machining tools 

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^^^right? If I were you though I would save up and do things right the first time. It may take a little longer, but you got it for 500 so that's not too bad. And as far as your exhaust choice they are good pipes they both perform the same though so it's just looks and sound that differ.

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Top end removed.... And WOW.. I've heard of terrible things like this but never saw them.... the crank is rusted SOLID! no end play no nothing.

 

Cylinders aren't bad at all, i feared worse, minor bore over, i don't think hone would be enough tho.

 

SO should i jut go for a stock stroke welded and trued crank and a top and bottom end gaskets?

 

Or could i run the Stoker with the plate till next winter and Do the rest of the work? and If i use the plate do i miIl the head or is that for when you don't and use port work. 

 

I was told a stroker port is roughly $300-400 plus A Cool Head for stroker domes (in addition not included :P)

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Just re fresh the bottom end with any new hardware it may need, find an OEM crank and get it trued/welded, new seals and be done down in the bottom for now.

 

That stator you posted is junk! Finding a nice running OEM is your best bet. Some folks like the new Race tech stuff. I tried it and would still reccomend finding a used stocker for your year.

 

As for possible stroker, there is no need for a plate anymore. But if you're not gonna port for the new stroke it's not worth your time. If you're on a major budget I'd just refresh the top end with quality FORGED pistons and gaskets. Maybe a cool head with domes.

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Not on a major budget, but more or less curious if its something i can do while its apart and run it with the stock porting till i regain the capital to do the head and port work. wouldnt be more then a season.

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ill snap some better ones with my good phone shortly

 

I have got a crank for $70. You can send it off get the rod bearings replaced which needs done one is seized and get it trued and weld in one stop. Thats more affordable than buying a new crank. Jussayin

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