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V4's and a blown motor


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I chose to skip air leak test and tear it down. If I was building or was working on a project bike yes that would have been done. The left piston was dimpled in the middle and the exhaust side of cylinder was built up with aluminum and the top of piston on the front side was rounded. The exhaust pipe where it meets the exhaust port was built up inside with melted aluminum. The coolant had a darkish color to it. When I pulled the head off all the orings were in place, head nuts were tight. The boots looked to be in good shape I try to avoid putting any srain on those knowing they are 25 years old now. Soooo, cylinder walls on the bad one are scored. I'm at 65.5. hoping they are less than a .25mm deep to go to a 66 piston. I'm sending them to FAST since they did the port work. Hoping I get them back and on the trails for this fall. Its been a wet summer here with this weekend being the nicest one we had all summer.... go figure. Think the cases are staying together. It will be hard to sleep at night. Learned a lesson here with regards to jetting. It was a well built motor and never had issues till I dropped the new reeds in. Its good to know they flow that much more air. I will be jetting with a 170 main, 58 or 60 pilot for this fall. Tonight I plan on cleaning up my wire harness. Question, do I need the TORS installed even after the delete has been done?

 

That weekend I was upnorth and got caught in a cold front moving in is what did her in. I had never rode that bike so hard, so fast and for so long plus the air temp dropped on top of it. Knowing the carbs were probably going to run dry I would occasionally back off, let them fill and proceed to rip.

 

I'm going to check the impeller because something tells me it went to crap. I'll drop in one of those billet ones like I should have done before. Live and learn and work more overtime.

 

I'll post pics of the piston....

Edited by salmon_slayer06
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Are you fucking kidding?

Your jetting was probably fine. For only the left side to be lean like that points to an air leak.

Your just a lazy asshole that didn't feel like doing it after being told to multiple times.

So good, leave the cases together. Rebuild your top end. Just hope it's not a crank seal. Because your just put together motor will have to be torn down again to replace that because you were to fucking lazy the first time.

ITS A 6 MINUTE TEST!

Please tell me why you would think it's okay to skip and you don't need that?

Because you just replaced an area with 4 gaskets and no way could that possibly cause an air leak?

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