SlowerThanYou Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Weight tire size and track surface? compression real high? Might be a little 2 much timing but plug looked right to me I agree the plugs don't look bad, but a correct plug reading doesn't always equal the quickest ET & best MPH. IMO, our best indicator for timing & fuel has always been using mph thru the traps. While I've never ran the specific distance of 500'. I've ran 300', 1/8 mile & 1/4 mile & I would imagine he should be in the 96-101 mph range on a good run. The easiest test would be change his timing -2* & see if the mph picks up. I don't think it's safe to add timing, by looking at the strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 What are you running for squish? And what is your compression? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joejr915 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 165-170 compression and .045 squish tires 69rollout(22") cut turf tamers fuel 108 octane 40:1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joejr915 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 I was running 90-94mph I need to be in the 98-101 range thats about what everyone else runs. If I turn back the timing will I need to regear it. Which the gearing and timing I run now it comes out awesome just the big end I need to figure out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 I would drop the timing to 6 and try that you will definitely gain more rpm at the finish line =mph Might not have to gear also @+10 with that squish and 108 octane I can bet that the motor is detonating which is also why its not pulling past 350ft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 I was running 90-94mph I need to be in the 98-101 range thats about what everyone else runs. If I turn back the timing will I need to regear it. Which the gearing and timing I run now it comes out awesome just the big end I need to figure out. I will start by saying a quicker ET will always win a race regardless of mph. Your 90-94 mph will beat 98-101 mph with a quicker ET, as long as your reaction time is equal to or better than your opponent or you have no other infraction like a red light or other rules infraction. Anyway, is there ET to be found with raising your mph, with that much difference there's (IMO). Backing your timing down is just a simple test to see if your mph raises. If it doesn't you simply go back to what you had. If the mph increases you keep lowering the timing until it stops showing an improvement. If lowering timing doesn't show improvement. It's time to start working on another area of the tuning area. I most always start with things that cost nothing, but a little time. If lowering the timing does improve mph, it may very well affect your ET. Other areas may have to be changed to get your ET back or improve it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Wait? There's no magic setup that hold true for every bike that will automatically make a guy the fastest at the track with no time, tunning, learning, or money spent???? I mean someone should surely give that info to help another racer....right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Wait? There's no magic setup that hold true for every bike that will automatically make a guy the fastest at the track with no time, tunning, learning, or money spent???? I mean someone should surely give that info to help another racer....right?Honest question, how many times have you been asked outright for your entire set up by some joe who honestly thinks he can take your specs and apply them to a totally different set up and expect it to work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 One thing at a time and if your short term memory is as bad as mine write down your changes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 In my opinion to much compression causing the engine to fight itself. Is this a k&t motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joejr915 Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 No. It was ported by redline I bought the cylinder used off a member Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 In my opinion to much compression causing the engine to fight itself. Is this a k&t motor? It may be too much compression if the rest of the combo is not right. We have ran 109-110 mph in the 1/8 & 125+ mph in the 1/4 mile with that much compression. We prefer to run it a tad lower, but I wouldn't hesitate to run that compression or more for 500'. It really doesn't matter what the OP does, but the tune for shorter distances is much more aggressive in most cases. Than the tune for longer distances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 [quote It really doesn't matter what the OP does, but the tune for shorter distances is much more aggressive in most cases. Than the tune for longer distances. this is very true. The complete build is different to be ideal. Not saying you cant make a 1/4 mile bike fast in 300'. But if the same tuner had a purpose built 300'bike they would be better off. Rec to op back of timing like sty said cause its free. If that dont work id look into some new domes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 this is very true. The complete build is different to be ideal. Not saying you cant make a 1/4 mile bike fast in 300'. But if the same tuner had a purpose built 300'bike they would be better off. Rec to op back of timing like sty said cause its free. If that dont work id look into some new domes There would be other free areas I would play with before buying domes, but that's me. A dome change is a good choice, but almost always takes more than one dome change. IMO, Tim at Titan Racing is the best for dome design/cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quadgod211 Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 I ran 660ft on my old 421 and ran a timing plate with a dynatek I would set the plate on +5 and the box would add 3-5 and slowly retard it's self down the track My motor for some reason wouldn't hole shot like I wanted with out high timing then stopped pulling until I got it back down..don't know if it will work for everyone but I liked it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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