DieselDan Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 I recently picked up a 93 shee this is my first one I have owned, It was running rough so I tore the motor out and found the right cylinder must have gotten some debree in it from the top of piston markings and the destroyed dome. So now im in need of some advice on what to do with the rebuild that will work well togother. Im thinking 65mm vitos forged pistons, 19 or 20 domes and then rejetting. It currently has Toomy T5 pipes on it, .01 over/64.25 wiseco pistons. V force reeds, adaracing coolhead. Any input from the experts here would be great!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Split the cases and have the crank checked. Could be debris from the crank coming apart, or could be detonation, which is bad for the crank and may cause the crank to come apart in the future. Also, since you didn't do a leakdown test before you tore it apart, you have no idea what the condition of the crank seals are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jriffe23 Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 I recently picked up a 93 shee this is my first one I have owned, It was running rough so I tore the motor out and found the right cylinder must have gotten some debree in it from the top of piston markings and the destroyed dome. So now im in need of some advice on what to do with the rebuild that will work well togother. Im thinking 65mm vitos forged pistons, 19 or 20 domes and then rejetting. It currently has Toomy T5 pipes on it, .01 over/64.25 wiseco pistons. V force reeds, adaracing coolhead. Any input from the experts here would be great!! Good start. That would be the exact setup i went to when mine finally blew up. Coolhead w/ 19cc, vforce, and t5's is a decent setup to just ride. Thats the setup i went with. And like he said, tear everything down and inspect everything, thats something i wish i wouldve done because my crank went out not to much longer. Good Luck! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselDan Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 That is my plan to separate the case and inspect inside, replacing seals and bearings as needed. If the crank does have any issues and needs replacing I will be adding a 4 mil stroke crank to my build list. I ordered the race logic port template and have done numerous small engine porting jobs so it should be rather simple with lines to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) Total go through regardless. Call FAST for any of the misc bottom end goodies you will be needing. The race logic templates are very basic and by today's standards, almost primitive. If you want it to be worth your while, get some burrs that will get you in to the transfers as well. Will it be the best port on the market? No, but it sounds like it'll be plenty for what you're doing. If you are confident enough to do some grinding on your cylinders I think you may wanna research some trans mods as well. I would definitely at least get every other dog done, polish the shafts up, mod the star, shift shaft, detent arm, maybe do a drum bearing, new trans bearings(fast has a neat kit from HotRods) Also, remember to port for the stroke. If your current kit is for stock crank and you do a 4mm, it'll be different. At least it should. Edited July 22, 2014 by trickedcarbine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselDan Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 I am perfectly comfortable to grind on my cylinders, I operate a machine shop and have had years of experience machining and fabricating. One question I do have is if I do the 4 mil stroker crank, what all needs to be changed or modified for it to work as it should??. I read some stuff about plates in between and I don't want to go that route and what about my porting job should be different for the 4 mil kit? Racelogic said that template i ordered "superstock" would work well with the stroker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 The basics of the 4mil is that the piston goes 2 mm up into the head and down 2 mm below the transfers, so the head needs to be cut for proper squish clearance, squish band width, and volume and the bottom of the transfers need to be dropped 2mm. Once that's all squared away, then you get into degreeing in the port timings and transfer port angles. If you want to do your own porting, you need a right angle Foredom and you need to do LOTS of reading. If you want to do your own porting, that's great, but you need to consider your motives. "I saved money" "No you didn't. How much money could you have made in your machine shop in all the tons of hours you spent researching and porting?" "I ported it myself" "Yeah, and I just smoked your ass with my ___________ professionally ported stock stroke" "I don't understand why this thing needs 480 main jets" "Maybe your homebrew port job is whacked" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 The basics of the 4mil is that the piston goes 2 mm up into the head and down 2 mm below the transfers, so the head needs to be cut for proper squish clearance, squish band width, and volume and the bottom of the transfers need to be dropped 2mm. Once that's all squared away, then you get into degreeing in the port timings and transfer port angles. If you want to do your own porting, you need a right angle Foredom and you need to do LOTS of reading. If you want to do your own porting, that's great, but you need to consider your motives. "I saved money" "No you didn't. How much money could you have made in your machine shop in all the tons of hours you spent researching and porting?" "I ported it myself" "Yeah, and I just smoked your ass with my ___________ professionally ported stock stroke" "I don't understand why this thing needs 480 main jets" "Maybe your homebrew port job is whacked" I wonder how many times we've seen this scenario go down?Some says they're comfortable "porting" their motor....but they want to use a generic template. .. that in itself shows they don't understand what their doing. Then you throw in added stroke and head mods/done design/squish...and they really are out of their league. Oh well...carry on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselDan Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 I have the tooling at my company to do the porting and pretty much all of the work. For me this is more of a hobby and I enjoy tinkering with these types of things and have done porting jobs before on chainsaws, other quads and such without a template or any added input from a "pro" and have had great results. I am capable of opening my ports for the longer stroke, and of cutting my own domes and and modifying the head as needed. i am more less looking for anyone that has advice on if the setup im talking about will work well together or anything i should need to add to my build list. I'm not in a rush or trying to build the fastest shee around more less just to have the experience and satisfaction of doing it myself. If someone had input on what machining specs and material removal for the head and domes was that would be nice. But money and replacing something or redoing something isnt going to bother me. "I didnt need a cummins in my F350 and could have bought all the adapters and motor mounts but I gain no knowledge or experience from that." "but when you ask about it I can tell you every detail of the process and what went into it" its an experience, satisfaction and pride factor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselDan Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 If it works for you to pay someone to do the work and have it done right the first time, good for you. I would take more pride in the fact I did it myself and maybe I don't get it right the first time and it takes some fine tuning or redoing the whole thing....so be it, but that is fine with me but in the end I like the fact I gained the experience and knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Nothing wrong with that. Some of us on the other hand ,place a high value on our own time ,and have found that it's less expensive to have a pro do the porting and head design. ..plus it results in a faster bike. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselDan Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 I understand that, I wouldn't waste my time trying to fix the controls or control panels on any of my mills or lathes or repairing a computer. I understand there is trades for reason and nobody can do everything not even me as much as I would like to be able to. Just isn't worth the time I would have into it or trying to figure them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasi S. Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Do it your self and enjoy! I did it and learned alot. Don't go over 75%. And with pump gas 32 is enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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