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Resistance When Spinning the Rear Wheels


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So I installed a new rear end on my Banshee.  The new rear end includes +2 JL Engineering round house swing arm, JJ and A twin row bearing carrier and bearings, Dominator 2 axle, Streamline rear brake rotor, EBC brake pads, x-ring chain, steel front/rear sprockets, plastic T.M. Designworks case saver.  When I lift the quad off the ground and spin the rear wheels by hand I can feel more resistance when spinning the wheels on this quad than when I spin the wheels on my bone stock banshee.  It feels heavier.  Is this normal?  I loosened the axle nut to the point where it doesn't touch the sprocket hub, I removed the brake caliper, and adjust the bearing carrier forward so that the chain is loose.  The resistance is still more on this quad than on my bone stock Banshee.  Can't figure out what is wrong IF anything, or do I simply need to break in the new parts so that the tires spin as easy by hand as do the ones on my other Shee?

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So just following up on my findings.  I removed the chain entirely and put the brake caliper back on.  Spinning the rear wheels by hand still felt a bit tighter than spinning my stock banshee rear wheels by hand WITH the chain, caliper and lock nuts on.  I removed the zerk from my bearing carrier and AIR and some grease popped right out the hole.  This made spinning the wheels by hand allot better (still no chain on and with rear caliper ON).  This was part of my problem.  Once I put the chain back on and spin the wheels it doesn't spin as free like it does with the chain off (expected).  Now I'm thinking my brand new chain slides and chain are causing me to feel more resistance on this quad than with my stock quad.  I guess now I'll just have to ride it and the chain and chain slides should wear some within a season so that it feels more like my stock Shee by the end of the season.

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Add more powers.

 

Your measuring Handpower losses.

 

Try adding a Horsepower. LOL

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A privateer GNCC racer I knew used to assemble everything ultra tight, beat it up for a ride session, then un screw and apply normal torque. He did this for all A arm, swing arm pivot and carrier, front hubs, and ball joints. His claim was that it helped get the bike to that supple yet broken in feeling. Never done it on anything but my carrier. It seemed to work.

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