salmon_slayer06 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Went up north for a weekend of riding and after about a 4 hour ride, I came back to truck to top off the tank, switch out the trail tires for the paddles and adjust chain slack. I got that all done and knew it was good to let the motor cool down for another good ride. Well went for a test ride to check that chain wasn't binding and what not. Things looked good so I headed back to truck to lock up the tools and get ready to leave. When I completed the turn the bike just quit. Strange I thought. Right away I knew something was wrong. Cracked the fuel cap open, checked plug caps, turned the on off switch a few times and tried to start. Nothing. Pushed back to truck stripped all the plastic and began diagnostic. I have no spark. Motor gave no warning. I jumped the leads going to switch and tried that. I took off the jumpers and tried that. Checked for spark that way. Checked plugs put new ones in. Made sure fuel was getting to motor. By pulling off fuel line from petcock. Took off the stator cover and noticed a bit of condensation in there. I sealed the cover from the last time I had it off by using some RTV. Don't know if it will affect the stator or not. I had set gap on pick up to spec. I never had this problem before..... oh obviously motor kicks over. My thoughts are this.... pull flywheel to see if key sheared, test coil test stator swap coil out with extra one I have here at home I'm going to get a digital mutlimeter today to help trace problem. I also suspect wire could have came loose from pin or something in connector. Any help is appreciated. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 So many folks always think it's nonsense to start parts swapping over a full technical diagnosis. Really, just swapping your stuff for known good working parts is the fastest way to rule out the stator, CDI, coil. The rest of the stuff becomes a rat race. Trouble shooting list Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically) Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators) Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even) Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased New spark plugs Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in New plug boots Ohmed and tried several known coils Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted Disconnected the tether switch Test kill switch Swap coil Swap CDI Swap stator At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 thanks for the help. When I bypass the ignition should I do it before the connector where its on the main harness or after the connector where its going to the switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) Its not the coil, plug wires, or boots. The switches were checked with multimeter as well as the coil. Kill switch has been bypassed while back and no tors. So that leaves me with checking flywheel, test stator, swap CDI and unwrapping wire harness. When it died it didn't hesitate or backfire it just quit and that was it. Edited July 8, 2014 by salmon_slayer06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Just check leads going to CDI. No continuity on blk/ white and blk with switch on. Red/ blk and blk continuity when switch on. At least I know the wire harness is good up to that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I tested stator at leads and did not get continuity on the charging coils. According to clymers its the problem. I won't say its it until its running again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 Fixed it. It was the stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Yahtzee! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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