B.b.p builders Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Ok new plugs 1 pass @ 400' pulled tether rolled to a stop. Looks like left cyl. Is leaner then the right. Changes I made from plugs above, Mixed fuel @ 32:1 Didn't touch the needle power jet 2 turns in from wide open. Checking needles now to see if they are same length. If they are I will open left power jet more then the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I see you also switch to a different plug. I wonder if that effected anything. What kind were original plugs posted, and what are the current plugs ya posted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.b.p builders Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I'm not sure, but my wallet was starting to feel the breix These are just a reg. br9s First plugs were a br8eix Ya I guess I should of mentioned that to, my bad. I'm not sure if that could if helped any. Didn't have much time tonight, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.b.p builders Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 ran back to back.. plugs have 2 passes back to back on them. motors continue to create heat every run. if they dont cool down to idleing temps in the pipe and in the moor you will have readings that are a lil off not necessairily a bad thing you would want to tune the motor to overall have a good strap, base reading and NOT a one pass good reading. since you ride the bike and its not a track one pass bike that makes a difference.. get new plugs. change mix ratio to 32-1 gap plugs at .18 tho adjust needle to idle, have clean just of idle performance. bottom pj's turn them 3 turns out. ride bike. make one full throttle pass. stop yank plugs look at the burn ring. if plugs are clean and show no heat at all OR if bike blubbers and wont run clean. raise needle 1/4 turn, adjust pj's in half turn. reinstall run again. you want to watch the burn around the base of the plugs. the one on the left looks fine the one on the right looks grey, and the burn ring from what i can tell is right at the strap. measure your needles length and see if they are the same length left to right. might also check to see if your pj's are drilled the same size left to right if they are you should probably do a quick leak down test OR run the right side 1/2 turn more on the pj. basically what i look at IF i actually pull the plugs out is the closer to the strap the burn gets the hotter it is running. timing i just adjust untill the top end drops off and back it down a tad from there. anymore i dont even look at the plugs i know from riding what the motor is going to want. if i think there is a problem i will check the plugs if you have the needle set about right ( not to rich not to lean) and first pass with pj's all the way open it blubbers from to rich pj, just turn them down 1/4 turn till it cleans up. thats your max rich setting to run.. easy.. This is good knowledge ^^^ One day by going through all this shit, I will be able to give advice and help myself and others like this ^Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Those 8's were the problem! Dude, that thing should of had 9's from the get go on alky. Think you just solved most of your issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOUTHTHIRTY Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Ok new plugs 1 pass @ 400' pulled tether rolled to a stop. Looks like left cyl. Is leaner then the right. Changes I made from plugs above, Mixed fuel @ 32:1 Didn't touch the needle power jet 2 turns in from wide open. Checking needles now to see if they are same length. If they are I will open left power jet more then the right. ^^^^^^^^^^^^ this is all correct...... while breaking in a new motor i like to keep it on the rich side,,,, like no burn ring,,,,, food for thought... if you tune your carbs in right on the edge, that doesnt leave much room for error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 That is more like what we wanna see in plugs. You can see a very distinct burn on them with clean base where it isnt burned. The left pic is kinda odd looking you can see where the plating is blistered from heat and it looks lean for sure. If you were track racing you could probably leave it like the right side but if it were me and since its just one pass, I would richen it up a bit. I doubt you would be losing more than a small amount of power by adding fuel. By the way , to all reading this. If you tune on a street or dirt and not under much load definately add quite a bit of fuel. That would be WAY lean if you got on sand. A lotta guys tune on a dyno or dirt till their plugs look like that and then burn them up in 3 passes on sand. You are getting there , the iridiums obviously didnt carry the heat to the base the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Much better! Left is deff leaner than right. Also tune power jets to what each cylinder wants. They don't have to be set the same. I would probably go out a 1/4 turn on the right pj and a 1/2 turn on the left. Add new plugs and try again. What is your timing set at? Can you take a pic of the ground strap from the side? Looks like it could take some more timing. But when you add timing you have to add fuel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I'd also go back to 20:1...which, will lean it out as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOUTHTHIRTY Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 ^^^ wat he said...its hard to think that way ...but more oil in gas means less gas .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 More oil in the gas makes it "thicker" for lack of a better term. It won't flow through the jets/orfices as quickly. I agree with badass on the timing, but I'd get the tune figured out first. Then, add a degree and a little fuel at a time to find the sweet spot. I always found the sweet spot when I got my best ET but then the MPH fell off...I'd then back it down until the MPH came back around. Obviously, this would have to be same track, same day, relative same time...and same lane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.b.p builders Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Great feedback! Thanks guys! Timing is set at +4 on the adjustable plate, and stock setting on the dynatek cdi. I'm really just trying to dial in the air/fuel, before I play with the timing. But guys with similar motor as mine (535 cheetah) say they really don't like lots of timing. I admit I have tried a pass with plate at +4 and dynatek on 3 and it felt like less power. Bike did not pull as it does set on stock. Once my air/fuel is happy, I will try more and less timing. Won't get the bike back out till the weekend. Oh about adding more oil, I like lots of oil also, and will probably add more oils once its dialled in, and see how it goes, also I want to change to klotz supertechnoplate, but still waiting for my guy to get it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Put a stock CDI back on. Unless you have the time and resources to get to a dyno and track, with a laptop, etc. I went down that route, trust me. Then set your plate on 7 degrees to start. Some of the fastest bikes out use a stock CDI...and stock coil. Why would you add more oil after you dial it in, only to have to dial it in once again once you add more oil? My advice is 20:1...leave it there, tune it there. Why do twice the work and get less protection? Forget what "other guys" tell you...see what YOUR motor likes. +7 and a stock CDI is a good starting point without knowing other specifics about your motor, like port timing, squish, squish band and dome angle, just to name a few. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I agree with dave, if you Change anything (oil, oil mix, timing etc) start over with your fuel tune. Also going off what others are running with a similar engine is hard to do unless everything is the same between um. Dome angles and bands play a big part in how much timing you can run without issue. I can see the timing burn on the ground strap and it looks like the engine wants more. I agree with dave I would go to 6 or 7 and try that. Like I said before, make sure ya add fuel when ya add timing or you could burn er down. I also agree with ditching the cdi box and going to a stocker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.b.p builders Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I'm open to trying anything that I feel won't mess shit up. So I will try 7 on the plate and stock cdi. And see if seat of the pants it feels better. But I will say the better part of me hopes it doesn't. I jus bought this dynatek cdi! After lots of reading on it(before buying) The curve(even stock setting) is much better then stock cdi, I'm not understanding why get rid of it? Why not leave at stock setting, and add a degree at a time on the plate as needed? I'm going to try both no matter what anyway, I don't have a dyno to go to, so I have to go by what feels best when I'm on it. If stock cdi feels best then I could always sell the dynatek, Anyone ever try these on a dyno, with dynatek settings for real comparison? Or have you guys and this is why you are recommending this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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