sprinklerman Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Dont forget carbs, pro mod trans, clutch, porting, domes, cool head etc. Add anohter 3-5k to that total. I cant give you a figure, i only did a 521. Didnt do my chassis yet.All of that is a given no matter what you're building so that's a wash. Sent from a van down by the river Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 For a smaller motor, i wouldnt of needed carbs, head, trans, clutch basket, case porting, trenching nor custom made pipes. I disagree. However you do have a good point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 On any 4 mm cub motor or bigger , or "hot" stock cylinder , you'll see improvement from carbs. You'll need a cool head and domes either way. You'll need a clutch either way. You'll need a good basket either way. You'll need pipes either way. Properly built 4 mm cub to a properly built 10mm cub is only the price difference in cranks and case mods. All other parts cost the same. If starting from scratch. Sent from a van down by the river 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 You'll need a cool head and domes either way. You'll need a clutch either way. You'll need a good basket either way. You'll need pipes either way. I had most of that. When i posted, i wasnt speaking just to the OP alone. Just in general to anyone thinking of going bigger. I didnt know how expensive or what it involved when i started. It add's up fast. Lots of people already have pipes, cool head, clutch, trans etc. for a 10mil i was recommended to get strait cut gears by my builder. That adds to the cost. Also i went with a super serval. So the additional cost of a head and pistons were present. I also didnt know that was needed before i did that. If i wouldnt of went big bore, ida kept my CPI's. Not everyone's goal is the same. I am also pretty sure i would of cheaped out on getting a stock basket and other not so quality parts. I cant express how glad i am that i did not cheap out. It's hard for some of us to learn to do it right. I am one of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 where the fuck people get 2500 for a serval for lil over 1k you can have a top end 1500-1600 crank too. and you dont need all the add ons but be a good idea, and can always upgrade carbs pipes trans and shit later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I'm talking upgrading from a properly built 4 mm cub to a properly but 10mm cub. It's right around a 800.00 upgrade. The carbs , pipes, head, domes and gears are all the same price. The only difference is 150.00 for case trenching and the difference in the crank price. 700.00- 1000.00 upgrade between the two. Sent from a van down by the river Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAVAGE420 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Sounds like alot of people don't like ALOT of beer this summer! Sent from my shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man-O-Steele Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 im sorry lol I said that backwards, I meant to say the stock cyls wont stack up to the serval. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03DMshee Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Did somebody say beer? Yuuuuuuum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I'm talking upgrading from a properly built 4 mm cub to a properly but 10mm cub. And i was talking stock to big bore 10. On that note, im not sure why anyone would need more than a 10mil serval. Maybe for the guys who ride in sand where the terrain takes up a lot of power or you are a heavy fellow. for my weight, i was recommend just the mil serval. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 FFS... If you want a properly built engine regardless of the size it's gonna cost some $. If you have the cash or can pay it off over time your good. If not save up for it. It's worth it. You want everything done correctly with the right supporting mods. Otherwise your just leaving out potential power that the motor can make. Some people say I don't know why you would need anything bigger then 10mil whatever it may be. The thing is once you get used to a motor overtime you'll end up thinking hmmm maybe it would be nice to have another good 10lbs of trq or more hp. This is why I say when you make a jump make sure you go big. This way your not building a motor that you'll outgrow quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 in saying all of that, im happy with my 4mm ported serval. any more power and it would overpower the +4MM swing arm in the sand (already wheelies too much) and be even worse and not hook for shit in the dirt. i doubt id ever go bigger, for my type of fucking around riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 If your happy with your motor that's great. That's the whole point. You want the motor you will enjoy. For some it will be larger for some it will be smaller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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