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Shifting issues


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I've had a number of issues related to shifting since purchasing my bike in March.  When I first got the bike, the clutch cable was too long and the end of the threads on the perch were stripped so it wouldn't allow for me to tighten the cable anymore.  I bought a stock cable and new perch/lever which helped with the clutch itself but then I kept hitting a lot of "false neutrals" where the roller on the end of the shift drum would get stuck on one of the points of the shift star instead of settling down in between the points as it should,  I bought a new shift shaft assembly from F.A.S.T. and they did the mod to it that is supposed to help make the bike shift easier.  Upon inspection, the shift shaft that was in it seemed to be perfect (compared to the new one) but I installed the new shift shaft anyway, installed new lock washers, adjusted the eccentric bolt, etc. etc.  It shifted fine on the stand.   Now it still snags up between gears, although not as much as before, and it has developed a new problem.  The bike will shift UP through the gears fine for the most part but, it doesn't want to shift back DOWN very well.  Especially not back into 1st gear.  I can''t even get it into 1st sometimes unless i don't use the clutch and kick it down while the bike is rolling.  There is just no resistance on the shifter when it does this.  It will bottom right out and nothing happens.   My shift star looks to be aftermarket (or at least it doesn't look to be 15 years old) and the shift drum is aftermarket as well (says Shift-Pro on it).  Could all three of these external shift mechanisms being aftermarket/modded in some way be a bad combination?  I plan to tear it back down one more time to be sure the eccentric bolt is still showing proper adjustment.  If it is, then I think I am about ready to throw in the towel and haul it off to someone who knows what they are doing with these things.  If it is an internal shift mechanism, shift forks or the transmission that would require pulling the motor and splitting the cases, I am not going to attempt that on my own

 

Before I go emptying out my bank account, does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?  Anyone had similar issues?  Thanks in advance

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Pull the trans. Honestly it's just easier to send the trans out and have it modded. Send cam at redline your bottom case and trans. He can inspect everything and set up the trans for you if your not comfortable doing it on your own.

 

My neighbor helped me pull the engine out and split the cases last night.   We couldn't find anything wrong with the transmission.   I just ordered new gaskets and seals from F.A.S.T. as well as a stock detent/shift drum (terminology?) with stiffer spring than the one on the Shift-Pro I have now to see if that helps. I didn't have the tool to mic the clutch friction plates before, so I'll check them to be sure they aren't worn but the clutch was supposed to have only had 10 hours on it.  I need to make sure that I am assembling the clutch properly since I have a pancake bearing,   I know that I out it back together the same way it came to me but maybe that wasn't assembled properly.  I'm also going to look really closely at the clutch pressure plate and basket for signs of wear - all the usual stuff but I may notice something now that I wouldn't have known to look for before.  Basically, all I know to do is try to put it all back together one last time and maybe I'll figure something out along the way.  I have all next week off of work so I'll take my time and keep reading this Clymer's manual and learning along the way to make sure I am understanding and doing everything properly.   

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Here's what I order to do a clutch.

Clutch kit

Pressure plate

Hub

And usually bushings for the basket and a good backing plate with HD bolts. If oem basket I usually tell the person to get a billet basket.

Eccentric screw

The big lock tab on trans shaft

Small lock tab on eccentric

Modded shift shaft

Pancake bearing

Shift pro kit

Oem detent spring

 

I know it's a lot but if I do it I like to do it once and know it's as good as it'll get.

Any other

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I have several of both lock washers, my quad already has the shift pro detent, my eccentric shaft and modded shift shaft are brand new (modded by FAST) and I don't think there is anything wrong with the ones I took out of it (they look new too).  My basket is billet (forget the brand but it's not stock) and I have the pancake bearing. I have ordered a stock detent and heavier spring (supposed to be lighter than stock but heavier than shift pro).   I'm going to inspect the pressure plate and hub as well as mic the friction plates before I put it back together.  I don't know about "bushings for the basket and a good backing plate with HD bolts".  I'll have to take a look at what I have when I get home 

 

When I put mine together and adjust it, the arrow on the actuator arm doesn't quite line up with the mark on the case, it is slightly closer to the stator side.  I've red some say this is how you want it.  The clutch feels good so I have my doubts that is where my issue lies, but I gotta try everything. 

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Sometimes you have to just look at the shifting mechanism and trans and shift it and spin it.. to see what it is doin and needs to do. To learn and see what to fix. best way to figure it out. it coukd be almost anything. Is the drum and star slot tight? where the star goes on with that "D" area?

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This sounds like a simple adjustment issue to me, but I don't have the bike so I can't say for sure.

 

I am pretty confident this has zero to do with your actual clutch components.

 

I wouldn't put too much thought into the actuator lining up with the case. None of mine do.

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This sounds like a simple adjustment issue to me, but I don't have the bike so I can't say for sure.

 

Man I sure hope so.  I inspected the clutch components closely last night and, to my untrained eye, they look fine.  In fact, almost everything looks brand new.  The previous owner told me literally built /restored this bike over the course of a year or so and only rode it twice before selling it to me.  I'll play with the shifting mechanism with both the stock detent and spring from FAST that is said to be lighter than stock but heavier than the shift-pro spring and see if it makes any difference.  I'm just worried because iit shifted fine on the stand before we put it back together last time 

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It is possible that it wasn't adjusted right in this picture but I think it's just the angle of the pic.  I have the clymer's manual now and will be giving it a 3rd try this weekend.  If that doesn't work, I also have a stock detent and heavier spring I'll try replacing my shift pro with.  I keep wondering if the modified shift shaft, aftermarket shift star and shift pro detent together just doesn't have enough tension because the detent wants to get stuck on the points of the star.  Why I couldn't get it to go down into 1st the last go around is beyond me.  I wasn't the one who took it apart the last time.  My neighbor tore it down for me last time and then I helped him pull the engine out and split the cases to check the transmission gears.  Nothing was wrong with them so it HAS to be related to the external shift mechanism (right?).  The neighbor has owned several banshees and grew up a mechanic by trade.  Just last year, he bought two junk banshees cheap, one with a blown motor and the other a bent frame and built a nice machine for cheap.  He knows his way around these things and he too is confused as to what is causing these issues.  The saga continues - LOL

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