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Identify this case work


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i did the case texture back in 2000...   also didnt do it a lot and never really noticed a big difference..

 

on the oil thing  i have noticed more with differnt brand oils leaving "puddles" in the cases after disasssembly  and also a few oils leave nothing.  yamapube seems to leave a dirty dry film at best.  the better certified oils leave a complete oily film all over the internals of the motors.  after a while they settle down in the bottom of the case. 

 

on the case match i have never seen one with that deep of a trench towards the back of the cylinder.  i'm thinking thats too maybe pickup the spray off the crank and hose it into the transfer area.  thats cool  but i dont do mine like that because i dont try to spray the intake charge towards the crank lower section... it makes more sense to me to have it go right in the transfer... hmm  also i dont like to do nothing with the case bearing oil supply holes  i personally do a lot more with that area to help with lubrication..  i have seen some cases filled in in that area and just the single small hole for the lube to hit the bearing..  didnt like that much..  whats funny is that motor had bad crank bearings in it... hmm

 

just my notes on this..

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i have seen some cases filled in in that area and just the single small hole for the lube to hit the bearing.. didnt like that much..

well remember nearly every dirtbike engine from day one has used just a simple hole and they seem to do fine. increasing the hole size alittle might give positive results in the long term but i dont see any reason to reinvent the wheel here

 

 

it makes more sense to me to have it go right in the transfer... hmm

if the reeds open around BDC or slightly after like some people say then yes it makes sense to have a clear unobstructed pathway to the trasfers. without boyesen ports i dont think much mixture will reach the transfers via the reed cage on a banshee . that may be one advantage to a case reed design. nothing but a clear path to the trans opening

 

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yeap  and those crank bearings are not ball bearing style..  pretty sweet huh..  plus even better  check out that factory case stuff..  neato  is that a ktm motor?  i have a 380 in the gerage that i am contemplating installing into a yfz chassis.  but also have a 95 yz 250 i could use also.  

 

 

case reed motors have a certain powerband..  they really seem to be more higher strung motors..   what i think i did was similar to that but using a piston ? reed port motor configuration.  and yes  without the added ports it cannot happen on the oem banshee motor.  i did it in a way that i havent seen before.  and required welding up the sides of the cylinders. whats really interesting on the 350 i did is it deff has a noticeable power surge in the top of 3rd and 4th gear.  its weird and i have never had a motor do anything like it. i think the motor is reacting to the increased load OR the flow just happens to all come together and the pipe optimizes at that point also.   i will see what will happen when i drop 140 lbs off the bike into the drag chassis and put in an override, and crank up the timing.   

 

of course  these are my opinions.  i PERSONALLY build motors to last.   so i look at lubrication aspects pretty closely.  if you want to fill in that throgh, and leave a lil bitty hole in there for a high strung high rpm motor thats cool  i just do it a lil different. 

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balloon thing??  i'm guessing you mean the exhaust chamber?  if you are  they pv uses a chamber to trick the motor into thinking it has a differnt size pipe on it.    some aftermarket you can get spacers for them to tune the power of the motor. 

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