Newcs222 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Install a new crankshaft, piston, and rings. Did a leak down test and was all good. I noticed large amounts of what seemed to be carbon where the head pipe meets the silencer as well as black shit from the silencer. Drained the oil and it seems a bit darker than it was. Still the same amount of oil. Could there be a leak between the crank compartment and the gear box? How can I know if this is correct. I though maybe the black carbon was from the rich mixture I was using to break her in? Is it normal to have lots of black carbon at brake in. Plugs are brown. What the easiest way to tell? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 dont use a rich mixture to break it in, you should use the same mixture for breaking in and on kill mode. if you did a leak down and it passed, well, youd have to say there isnt a leak, (when you tested it anyway) what mixture are you running ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Crank case is vented, so if your leak down passed I'd say it's just from rich fuel/oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 I'm using Bel-ray mc-1 25:1. My clymers manual said to run rich at first and then swap over to regular 50:1. A leak down test wouldn't let me know if there was a leaky crank seal because the clutch case was on at the time. The grayish oil I have drained may just be my clutch. But there is quite a bit of black oil leaking from head pipe and silencer. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Run it at 32:1 all the time. Run a bunch of two strokes that way. No problems ever. From break in until death Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Bel-ray call for 50:1? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 That's just a suggestion. Lol A lot of people run 40:1 and 50:1 but with such a high strung engine I think 32:1 is the way to go. Jmo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 So if the leak down test passed I shouldn't be getting oil through the crank seal or case? The gear compartment is vented so if the seal was bad I would have failed the leak down. Okay makes sense. What proper break in procedure? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Install a new crankshaft, piston, and rings. Did a leak down test and was all good. I noticed large amounts of what seemed to be carbon where the head pipe meets the silencer as well as black shit from the silencer. Drained the oil and it seems a bit darker than it was. Still the same amount of oil. Could there be a leak between the crank compartment and the gear box? How can I know if this is correct. I though maybe the black carbon was from the rich mixture I was using to break her in? Is it normal to have lots of black carbon at break in. Plugs are brown. What the easiest way to tell? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 I'm not saying my method is best or even good. I do two or three fifteen minute heat cycles and the ride wfo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 So if the leak down test passed I shouldn't be getting oil through the crank seal or case? The gear compartment is vented so if the seal was bad I would have failed the leak down. Okay makes sense. What proper break in procedure? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Right, If your crank seal had a leak, the air would go into case and escape through vent tube. The exception to this is stator side which obviously no oil could get in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 So if the leak down test passed I shouldn't be getting oil through the crank seal or case? The gear compartment is vented so if the seal was bad I would have failed the leak down. Okay makes sense. What proper break in procedure? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Ride it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 I do 2 heat cycles with temp gun letting engine get to about 140-150 deg , then ride it not staying wide open longer then 2 secs in each gear , I encourage you to get on the pipe and ride it also decell to break in rings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Bel-ray call for 50:1? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk You can run 32:1 or 50:1 you just have jet accordingly because the more oil you put the less fuel there is which makes it more lean (or was it more rich?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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