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Posted

I'm not speaking about all the people, there are a couple people who are on here to be a part of a fun hobby, and some idiots that want to just speak out there ass and give 0 useful input, if you read this whole thread from the beginning and can't see who is trying to be helpful and who is being an ass I don't know what to tell you. And I have gotten a little useful info from a few, but sprinkleman can kiss my ass. You heard me sprinkles.

Posted

You gotta have thick skin here. I guarantee you will not find more knowledge anywhere else. You don't really want to talk to some old heads about two stroke theory. Two strokes have come a long way since 86.

 

Not saying you have to use a builder, but at least call one to let them help guide you down the right path.

Posted

Man, you need to chill and grow some thicker skin.

 

The 2nd post gives you all the info you need.

 

Combustion chamber volume is measured in cc's, not mm's.

 

Milling a head. 040" or. 050" is only half the job.

 

That'll bump up compression some by decreasing combustion chamber volume, but more power can be had by sending you stock head to Mull Engineering to mill and rechamber the head.

 

If you mostly ride dry dirt, ditch the airbox in favor of some K&N Pod Filters w/Outerwears.

Get rid of the TORS and add idle screws.

Buy a carb Sync Tool from FAST and a TORS Elimination Kit.

Buy a tach off eBay and learn to jet your Banshee.

 

If you want to go faster do everything I mentioned and then buy exceptional suspension.

Posted

I totaly acknowledged the second post and even asked further questions, the personal your broke attack set me off, I'm broke by no means, I have a wife and a lot of hobbies so chose my battles, I understand two strokes have come up, I have raced for 32 yrs now and ridden on some serious teams, I have changed top ends and retuned in the back of box trucks between motos, I'm new to the banshee not two strokes but do know that a lot of people on here no more about banshees than I do and would appreciate your trial and errors, I'm a rider just like both of you and have probably put in and given back more than "most" of you, thick skin is not something I'm lacking, I'm cool as a fan and appreciate true help but come at me being an ass I will give it back, and getting your buddies to sponsor your lipsmack is gay as a football bat.if you don't like my question just ignore it and let the people who have been there put there input in.

Posted

Whatever man, they're just poking your ribs.

Instead of making them feel good about getting under your thin skin, shrug it off, laugh at it and have a good time.

 

Get a Clymers manual, get the Sync tool and a tach.

There's a great video on you tube about sync'ing carbs.

Learn how to tune the carbs.

Mull Engineering can dial in the head for you.

Get pods and outerwears.

Do a TORS elimination.

Advance the timing.

You already have a welded crank and you're ported.

Tune that pig and I bet you'll be happy.

Then upgrade your suspension.

Posted

I will deffinately try that, I will get a tach, normally I just throw a adjustable cdi box on and sit in front of the dyno with a box of jets till I reach good curviture, the tach is new to me, the timing plate is on the way and just ordered the k&n air pods with outerwears, in your oppinion do you think working the stock head is more beneficial than buying a cool head ?

Posted

If you really know how to work on engines then this should be easy for you. get a coolhead with domes od your choice. carbs, timiing advance, etc. etc.. then its as simple as jetting it. there is air and fuel, its a simple 2 stroke ffs.

  • Like 1
Posted

That's my initial thought, was just unaware of the benefits of different size domes , I'm a big believer in matching, I think I'm going to go with a cool head with 21cc domes, my cylinders are ported, bored 1mm over, advance timing, air pods, bore carbs to 28 and jet accordingly once all together, not a sand drag but hopefully it will run strong and show decent numbers. Thanks.

Posted

Stock carbs have laid down 80+ whp.

No need to bore them.

Plus very easy to mess them up completely.

 

 

The real benefit of cool heads and the interchangeable domes is being able to ride at higher elevations swap out the domes for smaller ones and not feel the affect elevation has on a motor.

 

Well, not completely, but waaaayyyyy less than not.

 

Also running higher octane race fuel.

 

And they're said to provide enhanced coolant capacity.

 

If you're not riding at sea level, then go to 4k+ elevation to ride, then save your money.

Have Mull Engineering rechamber your head for your fuel and elevation for $100.

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