protoolsuser81 Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 (edited) Well a few weeks ago I had my Banshee start reving up high out of no where. I shut it down and bought a leakdown tester and I have no leaks and holds pressure fine. I put everything back together and today after hitting 4th gear it would start to bog down real bad and had no powerband. I stopped and pulled over and shut it down. Started a minute later and it took off fine and did the same thing around 3rd gear just looses all power and even if you down shift it still would act like someone was holding down the break pedal and just struggled. Again shut it down and then ran great for a minute and kept doing tje same thing and once it started running bad it would never recover untill you stop for a minute. Any ideas of what might be causing this to happen? Edited May 1, 2014 by protoolsuser81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Sounds like partially clogged petcock screen. That would be the case if you're burning gas faster than the petcock flows and you're running the bowls dry. Try switching it to reserve and see if it solves the problem. It's pretty unlikely that both screens are plugged the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protoolsuser81 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 (edited) I actually tried reserve for a quick second as it was acting up and nothing. Again, I switched it as I was riding and not for very long maybe 15-20 seconds. Edited May 1, 2014 by protoolsuser81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Sounds like partially clogged petcock screen. That would be the case if you're burning gas faster than the petcock flows and you're running the bowls dry. Try switching it to reserve and see if it solves the problem. It's pretty unlikely that both screens are plugged the same. ^^^^ THIS! They can both clog up if fuel turned to varnish. Like he said…….Might flow enough for low speed use, but get those blows draining quick and the petcock can't refill in time. Might be some serious piston damage by now. pull fuel petcock , clean and test. Then pull your pipes and look in at the piston skirts and tops for any damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protoolsuser81 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 This wouldn't have anything to do with the toes or anything would it? I bought carbs that had them removed and just unplugged everything. I didn't cut any wires or anything. I'm sure this has nothing to do with anything but just figured I would ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protoolsuser81 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Tors* sorry my phone likes to auto correct things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokeVW Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 This wouldn't have anything to do with the toes or anything would it? I bought carbs that had them removed and just unplugged everything. I didn't cut any wires or anything. I'm sure this has nothing to do with anything but just figured I would ask. If you switched the carbs right before the problem started, I would suspect them. If you had switched the carbs and it ran fine at first for several minutes and then started acting up, I wouldn't suspect them. There is, as I understand it, a feature of the TORS that will kill the spark completely if it thinks there is a fault, but that wouldn't make it run with low power, it would just stop it from running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 tors does let it keep running but it kills the spark down to idle only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RollinRhino Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 It could need a new powerband. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokeVW Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 tors does let it keep running but it kills the spark down to idle only So it is like the parking brake feature on the Warrior (and maybe the Banshee?) that will drastically alter timing/spark so it runs like shit? If the Warrior thinks the parking brake is applied (or if the switch is acting up) then it'll start and idle OK but run like ass when you try to take off, popping and backfiring and running like complete shit, not allowing it to rev up. I haven't tried it on my Banshee, I just remember the owners manual says the TORS will immediately cut off the ignition if there is a fault. The little warning box on that page states a potential hazard is continuing to ride the ATV after the TORS has stopped the engine. It goes on to say to ensure the fault is repaired before restarting the engine... by an Authorized Yamaha Dealer, of course. I read it to mean that the engine would be killed or stopped completely by the TORS but I guess it is like the parking brake thing, where it runs but runs like shit. In that case, the TORS may very well be the cause of the problem, but not unless the problem started right after the install of the new carbs that eliminated the TORS. If it ran OK with the new carbs for a few runs or minutes or whatever, then it probably isn't the TORS acting up... it would have done it right away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 There are three TORS plugs to unplug. Obviously the two on top of the carbs, and the black box/TORS Brain, on the left of the frame, under the fuel tank oposite side of the ignition coil. What are your mods? What jets are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 And another thing, check to make sure no wires are melted from the exhaust pipes and shorting out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 also make sure the air cleaner is clean, if they are really dirty or have something restricting them, they will run great till you need a lot of air and thern it will die. i had a bad outterwears that caused this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protoolsuser81 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 There are three TORS plugs to unplug. Obviously the two on top of the carbs, and the black box/TORS Brain, on the left of the frame, under the fuel tank oposite side of the ignition coil. What are your mods? What jets are you running? I unplugged and changed carbs, unplugged the black box under the gas tank and also removed the parking break one and also the one in the throttle. Mods are K&N pods right off the carb, Tors removed, T6 pipes and silencers, Vforce 4 reeds. I forgot the exact number on my jets but they're higher then then the T6 jet kit that was in the old carbs. I will be pulling them off here soon and get the exact numbers of the main and pilot. I believe the t6 kit in the old carbs was a 270 with a 27.5 and there is like a 310-340 or something in the main and a bigger pilot as well. Again I will get the exact numbers and i'm going to look for any fried wires and clean the carbs and air filters as well. Thanks for all the info guys and will report back soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Did you ever clean your petcock screen? Sure sounds like that is more your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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