TroyBrock Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Hello everyone. The other day I was wrapping my connections to try to make everything alittle more waterproof. I wrapped the CDI connections with no problem. But when I wrapped the stator connection it ran fine but if I moved it at all it died, I shut it off to figure out the problem and have had no spark since. I ohmed everything and even took the wire harness out to check all my connections everything is within specifications. I have no idea where to go from here. Things I check: Continuity on wire harness Pickup Stator Coil Killswitch It seems to me that I'm not getting any power but I don't know, if anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 It sounds like you already have the source of your issues. What I would recommend is use two small pieces of wire or make something to get your meter connected to the stator source coil right at the CDI. Unplug the CDI of course. From that point you should read proper stator resistance. Move your suspected areas and see if that reading changes. You can then pinpoint where the issue is. It is common for people not to check the plugs themselves but they cause issues, especially the ones Yamaha used back in the day that are less than weather tight. You will see copper sulfate (bluish) up in the plug. I have had them bad enough that we needed to carefully remove the sockets or pins from the plug housing and resolder them. You will notice somewhere VERY small lock blades that lock the sockets into the housing. Depress them with a needle device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyBrock Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) I think I have it narrowed down to the coil or the CDI, and the coil from "-" to "+" ohmed at .38 and the resistance between the 2 caps was around 16,000.Those are reasonable values aren't they? I replaced my plug caps with NGK in September when I bought the bike because the original ones were shot. The stator is making power, I have a trail tech vapor and when I kick it over it turns it on which means there is power in my system. If it's the CDI I don't understand why it would all of the sudden fail, I didn't pull on the wires at all. Edited April 20, 2014 by TroyBrock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Plug caps installed shouldn't be more than 7.3 kohm but normal for most is around 5.5kohm,remove the caps test wire to wire when caps are installed you should get same reading get rid of the NGK caps as they add 5k rite off the bat a regular parts unlimited cap works best for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyBrock Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 But my buddies stock coil tested at 15,500 ohms plug to plug and his works so is the extra 500 ohms really causing the issue? I tested plug cap to plug cap, I wasn't getting a reading from cap to "-" or "+", should I be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 The book is absolutely written WRONG! Secondary should test from cap to cap or plug wire to plug wire. No, I highly doubt you have any issues with the coil. Also, if the bike was working fine and you messed with a couple wires and now it does not, it likely is NOT the CDI either. On the CDI, there is a black and a black/white. Test that the black is at ground potential and the black/white is not. When bk/wht is grounded, the CDI will not fire. Again, do as i said in the previous post. There are tons of guys here that replace parts and more parts until something works. In many cases, the part was never even bad but for instance, if the plug for the stator needs work and you replace the stator, whala, the stator must have been bad. Another thing to watch for is DMMs (digital multi meters) that do not induce really any load on a wire. Older analog testers will move some current in the wire during test which helps catch issues like a wire hanging by a thread. I have my money on something simple here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyBrock Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Okay I will check the CDI wires. None of my wires in the harness are hanging by a thread, I unwrapped and followed each one careful. Black wire coming from the CDI should ground, but the black/white wire should not? Where should I test them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Test blk/wht right at the plug that you will have to unplug to test the stator at the CDI. Simply establish ground on black, then take one lead over to blk/wht. If you have continuity, the blk/wht is grounding at the CDI and the CDI will not fire. IIRC, the TORS, kill switch, and key switch are all using the same blk/wht lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyBrock Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 No problems with continuity, the black grounds and the black/white does not Am I just sitting on a dead CDI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 The only way to really know is with an oscilloscope. Scope the stator input right to the CDI, then the pulse coil to the CDI, then the Orange wire on the output. Remember, if the pulse generator gap is too high, the trigger trip voltage will not meet threshold for the CDI and it will not fire. typically if the gap is in spec and the coil resistance of the PG is in spec, it should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyBrock Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 I don't have access to an oscilloscope but I'm almost 100% positive it's the CDI I checked - killswitch - grounded the key switch to rule that out - coil ohms .38 between "-" and "+" and 16k between the 2 caps - stator resistance is I'm check - wire harness has continuity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Did you test the pulse coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyBrock Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Yes, that ohmed back right also. The gap is set right also, about a business card away. I tried moving it closer and farther with no change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 At least from here it sounds like you have done what you can to prove the CDI. Get one or borrow one. I do NOT recommend hard mounting them like OEM though. I like to at least put a rubber washer under them. Vibration and electronics don't work well. And Japan loves lead free solder which cracks out. You will not see NASA doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyBrock Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Well that's a bummer, must have been me pulling on the wires that did it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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