lowidenfast Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I am trying to get to the bottom of my shifting issues so I have drained the fluids and pulled the clutch side cover off to get a look at the eccentric shaft and see if it needs adjusting. What is the easiest way to remove the clutch basket to get to it and can it all stay intact when I do this or are all the plates going to come apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Easiest way is remove the springs and use an impact wrench on the clutch basket nut after you have bent the lockwasher back off of the nut. I dont think you can avoid having to reassemble the clutch pack but its very simple anyways. The only real time saver is the impact wrench. It can be very difficult to hold the clutch basket while trying to turn the Nut with a regular ratchet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 You have a manual? Fiber steel, fiber steel and ditch the orings if you still have them. 99% chance the plates are gonna come apart. Might as well mic them to make sure they are not getting close to the end of their life cycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonzodesign Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 do not take the clutch plates out until after you impact the nut off, as uman said bend the lock washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nieskes Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 do not take the clutch plates out until after you impact the nut off, as uman said bend the lock washer.What does it matter If you pull the plates out before you run the nut off??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 ^^^^x2. I always do. Just to keep shit simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonzodesign Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 if the plates are left in you can put minimal pressure on the last one and the hub wont turn, take them out and it spins like crazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 On the pressure plate there is 8lbs of torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I never take the plates out. Remove the pressure plate, big nut, slide whole shit off at once. Plates hub and basket stay together. But like said, it dosent matter. It only takes an extra 2 minutes. And if it is stock the rubber bands can be thrown in the trash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonzodesign Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 @wayne-smith we are talking about the big nut under that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I guess I always pull the plates because if I'm gonna be in the clutch I'm gonna mix the fibers to have an idea of what life span is left in the clutches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 No, I don't have a manual and I have a Toomey clutch - supposed to have only had 10 hrs on it when I bought the quad. I've only put another 10 hrs on it myself, maybe less. I don't have any tools to mic the plates with so I guess I'll just try to leave everything together for the sake of keeping things simple. I don't have air tools either but the bike did come with a homemade clutch tool. I'm going to have to borrow a torque wrench when I put it back together to get the pressure plate torqued properly. I have really basic tools and even more basic knowledge but, after the experience I had at the local motorcycle shop, I am determined to lean how to do this shit myself Does anything else require specific torque specs (other than pressure plate bolts)? I saw a video last night that said you use a cross pattern similar to lug nuts when you tighten those up. Do I need to order replacements for the two washers I am going to be bending flat, the one on the clutch and the other on the eccentric shaft adjustment? Anything else I should be replacing when I put all of this back together? The main gasket on the clutch side cover looks fine. Thanks guys 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 So I finally got the clutch off to have a look at the eccentric shaft and I am still a bit unsure about the adjustment. Am I supposed to be lining things up so that, when looking at it perfectly level, the star cog (terminology?) has the same gap above and below it? I used good ole Microsoft paint to highlight what I am referring to. Is this correct? If so, it looks like I am pretty close (not convinced this picture is straight on/level). The piece behind the Shift / shaft with the rounded end that actually fits in between the gears on the shift star says "shift pro" on it. again, not exactly sure what it is called but i did read on here that some people had problems with the weaker springs that come with them. Perhaps this is my problem because, as long as I am understanding the adjustment part correctly, mine looks to be pretty damn close. Thank guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 WTF? No, something is way out of whack. Your shift lever is in the down position. The shift shaft should be positioned so that the eccentric adjustment bolt is in the middle of the window in the shift shaft. Then you adjust the eccentric so that there is equal distance between the claws and the pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 The eccentric stud gets worn over time and should be replaced as well as the lock washer that locks the nut. The spring also gets worn from the eccentric stud too. Have a look at both pieces for wear. I'm pretty sure the transmission should be in neutral when adjusting the eccentric stud as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.