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Turbocharged and fuel injected banshee........


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Have you talked to this dude at all? He seemed to get the turbo ironed out pretty well and was always willing to talk boost. Talked a lot a out turbo yammys from the 80's. Cool guy. Cool project.

http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5900&sid=9913ee77588e28f9036f0e18059e7066

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Have you talked to this dude at all? He seemed to get the turbo ironed out pretty well and was always willing to talk boost. Talked a lot a out turbo yammys from the 80's. Cool guy. Cool project.

http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5900&sid=9913ee77588e28f9036f0e18059e7066

what a BEAST

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IF you are actually making 20psi and it's sustained at that level, they WILL have issues. That I will guarantee.

Good thing they are cheap!!, they are not leaking yet after a fair bit of abuse and multiple stints to 25psi.  I plan on keeping pistons, reeds, and crank seals in bulk haha

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Update if the week

IMG_1974.jpg

we purchased a dynojet 250i with an eddy brake!!!

 

I will have lots of dyno data now, I plan on trying everything from completely stock cylinders to full drag port (whos got any spares to part with!), I will post results with various set-ups to see what differs.  so far it seems to like more timing, we picked up 10hp so far by going from -2 to +2

 

bad news is I fixed a big exhaust coupler leak and tried out the new dyno, boost comes on fast and made into the 18psi range when we kept leaning out, tried adding more fuel in various ways, upping fuel pressure and ve tables.......chased it for 7 runs.  And then melted a piston.  it turns out the fuel feed line had kinked and was dropping pressure under load.

 

we have now seen 100hp and I will keep pushing the limit of this set-up

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Sick. Research the crank seals though. I've done some turbo sled stuff and seen a few good ideas. One of the best was a guy basically lathed up a copper seal and used a rubber grommet with a retainer. We also tried dumping epoxy in the open side of seals and machining a groove for a snap ring retainer that I'm pretty confident might be a pretty good set up. Worked all winter in the UP. Remember, this is about the only turbo build on a banshee motor that is gonna be a sustained rider. Most guys are only ramming them down the drag strip and then that's it and they're having enough problems keeping a turbo set up together. Reliability is gonna take a lot of R&D. Looks like you guys got all the equipment needed to keep dialing it in. That's awesome! Keep the updates coming. This is cool as fuck

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The timing is gonna help initially by helping build heat. Should help with spool up. You are on a micro squirt right? So you can blast it with timing to get the bugger spooled up and yank the timing out once the boost comes on and it starts to RPM.

 

Where are you guys at with the head set up? Might wanna use a few cheap stockers on a copper gasket to try a few different chambers then once you see what works give TDR a call for a girdle head set up. His is not Rubber O-rings. It's a gnarly gasket. It'll hold boost for sure.

Edited by trickedcarbine
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On an old V max which has seals nearly identical to the banshee they would start to actually bow and gat shaped like this " ) " with minimal blow out from the seal edges them selves but above 20 psi they would physically begin working their way out of their little groove. I haven't done a banshee so my knowledge will probably get shot down by N20. But I've been around a handful of boosted toys. You are gonna need to address sealing the crank case, case surfaces. And the head. Typically the metal reinforced base gaskets will hold with a touch of copper RTV. Thought about sending the ones from that Vmax build down to tony at TDR to make out of copper. But so far the cometics held. It'll probably get a few more pounds this season and then go kaboom before I bother changing it though.

Edited by trickedcarbine
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