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7mil cylinders


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I am just on my phone and can't seem to see the triple port, nor does it look like the out side of the cylinder has been built up for the triple port. If I was spending the cash for a 7mm motor I would just go with a 10mm since you have to trench the cases ethire way.

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After doing triples on mine, I don't see how you could do any passage larger than 3/16" to 1/4" TOPS without welding. There just isn't that much meat in there to leave any wall thickness without welding. After doing it, I'm just going to buy triple exhaust cylinders next time unless these run like the best thing since sliced bread. I really want to do a PV motor next time around though. Wonder if twister would do a pv small block....

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After doing triples on mine, I don't see how you could do any passage larger than 3/16" to 1/4" TOPS without welding. There just isn't that much meat in there to leave any wall thickness without welding. After doing it, I'm just going to buy triple exhaust cylinders next time unless these run like the best thing since sliced bread. I really want to do a PV motor next time around though. Wonder if twister would do a pv small block....

Mostly it's only his monster Big Block cylinder that has the PV's. I think his Sniper might get it as well. He may still have old style cyls around though.
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Why you want a power valve? drag cylinder with more broad power range?

Not everyone here is a drag racer, that's why. Mine is setup for woods/open fields/100+ mile trail trips. I want the widest, smoothest powerband possible with the best chance of reliability when I'm 100 miles from home, not the most HP possible or fastest 300' time. A 4mil smallest bore sized twister small block with pv's would be my exact choice if Louie would make it for me. No nicasil to deal with in case of shit happening, no random casting porosity like pv cheetah's have every now and then, and basically the same cost. Should be around 100hp easily with a super wide powerband. I could build it with the compression in alky territory and dial my timing way back to keep knock at bay (can even run knock sensors if I want), then dump in e85 and let microsquirt wake it the hell up in the extremely rare event I end up a drag strip. MS has built in support for a flex fuel sensor and will automatically change timing and fueling maps for those who aren't familiar with it. 

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