Jasonc Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Is it possible that a stator won't let bike rev up but it will idle fine? Traded a $300 .22 pistol for bike with "welded" together tranny gear,replaced gears, still had around 120 compression so just put top end back together with all new gaskets, good leak down test, removed all tors and park break crap, bought a new cut down wiring harness,new reeds, carbs cleaned and jetted 300m 27.5 pilot( mid- missouri, 990ft elevation, fmf pipes, no lid air box with new k&n). Bike ran great for a few times short rides 15 min here and there, then started bogging alittle when warmed after riding 15 -20 min, cleaned up all ground locations added a ground from engine to frame, new plug boots trimmed back plug wire, new plugs. Dyna coil tested good cold and warm, figured must be stator. Searched and searched, ricky stator sucks, rm sucks, oem best, didn't find much bad on electrosport, bought and installed no spark, check there wireing the green and red wireing from pick up was switched, switched them in conecter that plugs to bike harness and have spark, bike will start right up and idle fine, but will not rev up at all, doesn't die or back fire or sputter just Boggs, also ordered a new coil just incase and no difference with new coil, is it possible that the stator is f'd up and will let it idle but not rev up? From what I've search a cdi will usually just "die" and unfortantly I cut the wires from the stock stator for ease of removel so I can't put it back in to check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 you say you removed parking brake crap, did this include the switch in the clutch lever? if not, unplug switch. If so, try snipping the green/yellow wire off at the cdi. its for a rev limiter hooked to parking brake switch which if grounded makes the bike unable to go over idle rpm by limiting the spark/timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Yes wires are cut from clutch switch and also the new " drag" style wireing harness only has 3 wires comeing out of cdi box, orange to coil, black ground to coil and black with white strip I believe that goes to kill switch, and I even unhooked kill switch with it running and still won't rev, that's what's got me so puzzled is before I put the new stator in it would rev fine, just bogg when warmed up and flywheel has no rattle or rust on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastforworddad Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I would put the old known working good stator or one from a friend's running bike in and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 here's the bike not a bad trade for a pistol and I've put about $400 in other parts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I'm gonna try to search for a oem stator in St. Louis today and see if that solves the problem, I just find it odd it will sit there and idle for 15 min but will just bogg when hitting the gas and everything eliminated that would cause it safety wise, tors box gone, new clutch perch no p brake, sensor totally taken out of throttle, wire cut at brake lever on bars, no key totally eliminated with new drag cut harness Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I had one that had the exact same problem... It ended up being a bad flywheel... Tried 3 different stators, then for shits and giggles swapped a flywheel, and bam fixed.... The old one had broken up magnents inside of it.... Try shaking your flywheel in your hand, if it rattles it's bad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I had read that about the magnets and shook the hell out of it and no rattle or "sand sound" I'm surprised cause the guy I got it from had already pulled the motor apart and I'm sure he took the flywheel off with a hammer instead of a $10 correct puller, there's no dings or rough marks on it though, but it's worth a shot to try Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastforworddad Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I had the ignition side of a stator go out while the bike was idling as I was getting my sync tool to sync carbs. It just shut off like I hit the kill. After kicking it for a while, swapped in another stator and fired right up. Wondering if the load is low on the ignition system at idle but as the revs increase the load also increases, maybe causing it to break up above idle. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 You might see if Precision Powersports in Imperial has a used oem stator they would sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I was just getting ready to call them, I thought they might have some laying around Mabye a flywheel to, thanks everyone for help and I won't be a dick and ill let everyone know what the fix ends up being Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Precision powersports has the dreaded ricky stator brand but ill try it and be a guinea pig, since ricky claims to have started living right and has good stuff now so they claim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willaduncan Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Buy a stator from Gary on here he makes better than oem stator with 200 watt dc or ac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 UPDATE, removed electrosport stator,put new stator on, fired first kick after sitting for a week(used to take 4-5 kicks) would rev good like normal, went for a ride still bogged and wasn't running good on one cylinder, drank more beer and stared at it, thought I would drop the jet size from 300 to 290, took the air box off and checked carb slides, instantly noticed the tube the main jet screws into was up about 1/2" into carb throat, took carbs apart and the brass washers where missing from under the main jet, (brass washers from lowes # 6 are the perfect size) installed, just rode it for a hr and it runs perfect now, so I possibly wasted $210 (electrosport stator $110, ricky stator $99) over a 5 cent washer. I will update on the rs stator, percision powersports told me that the problems they had were the 200 watt ones and the stock replacement ones where good, time will tell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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