lowidenfast Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 another picture, not sure if you can tell anything from these. One more showing the eccentric bolt to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Now this you may be able to make heads or tails of Uman. Does the eccentric shaft look to be OK? I could take better pics? Sorry for playing 21 questions. i really appreciate your help. I'm in way over my head when it comes to wrenching on these things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 with out the basket removed you cant tell if the eccentric is adjusted correctly cause it actually moves parts under the basket. Best way to learn is hands on. Asking questions is the only way to learn with out trial and error. Also the ball inside could be worn and have a flat spot creating the lack of adjustment. Id pull it apart and have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Get ahold of jds, see if he can make you a rotor guard that will work with the stock swinger I e-mailed them through their website to ask about this but haven't heard back from them. I did get a skid plate from another member for a temporary solution though so i could hopefully hold out for JDS to get back to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdgriff Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 (248) 431-6342 send jd a text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Before you bolt it all back up i would remove the pressure plate and use a magnet to extract the ball bearing inside the clutch push rod assembly. Dont have to take basket off or anything just the pressure plate. If this little ball bearing is worn it will also make the distance from clutch actuator/pushrod/bearing/adjuster off and leave you without enough adjustment. cost like $3 for the ball. I over tightened the adjustment on my first banshee and put a flat spot on this bearing and had to replace it since i could never get it adjusted right after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicstuff Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 If you don't do the rotor guard setup like jds, I run a Moose one that is Stout as hell and I'm not easy on skids as I ride some nasty trail but it's held up better than the other 2 skids I ran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Turns out that I just needed a shorter clutch cable. I took it for a spin last night BUT i still shifted into neutral/between gears when going from 3rd to 4th gear. How concerning is this? I have been running around like a chicken with my head cut off re-wiring my trailer lights, getting new tires and a tag for it, rounding up the gear etc. for a ride that I organized this weekend. Am I going to damage something if I ride it on Saturday with this underlying issue? I'm hoping to ride Saturday and then tear it down again and get to the bottom of it. I know that some of you have told me to check the eccentric shaft and I am going to have to get more familiar with this. I asked the damn motorcycle shop to do so when I dropped it off with them but they didn't even fully re-assemble the damn bike before I picked it up... Guess it is time for me to step my mechanic skills up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I'm with u man on the eccentric adjustment. I always check it before the basket and after. But in your photo, it does appear that the screw is a bit out of adjustment. You want it so that it sits evenly between the top and bottom of that square like shape on the shift shaft. Yours looks to be way at the top. This could definitely cause some of your shifting issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 I made it through the day with only one "false neutral" but that was because I got squirly when I couldn't let go of the twist throttle and kicked down on the gear shifter not meaning to. The twist throttle absolutely MUST go immediately. That thing is suicide for MX and aggressive trail riding. I can see having one for riding in the sand and drag racing etc, but not for what I do. I almost ate it three times because of that throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE CHAOS Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I love 'em... my thumb slips a lot sliding around over ruts. Definitely not an ideal time to lose wheel spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowidenfast Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 I love 'em... my thumb slips a lot sliding around over ruts. Definitely not an ideal time to lose wheel spin. I bet I'll be used to it by the time I figure out how/acquire the parts/get around to changing mine back to thumb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.