willaduncan Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Kevin's mx hardcore port is legit, Kevin had a fast turnaround time and the bike with just port work was a whole new machine fast as hell for a stock motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willaduncan Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 But to be honest my new builder of choice is jeff at fast, he carries better quality cranks is easier to get a hold of has the same turnarounds and offers way more products not to mention jeff, Cody or anyone else that answers the phone will talk to you for as long as you want answering all your questions best customer service of any shop I've ever used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATVridinMaNiAc Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 I've also always been happy as hell from everyone at fast. Got my crank from him hotrods true and weld. Very nice. Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLack Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 After talking to pretty much every builder I shipped the jugs to Kevin today. Going with his MX-hardcore port and pump gas domes. Probably go with Jeff for a crank. Couple other questions. Frame, swingarm pegs the whole 9 yards has been powdercoated matte black. I don't want to toss these ugly looking jugs and cases in this nice frame. My powdercoater will do the jugs but wont do the cases unless the rubber mounts are pressed out. I really don't want to have to do that and buy new mounts. How well does hi-temp paint hold up on cases? Not worried about the temp but more or less gas, oil coolant etc spilling and removing paint. or thinking of cleaning them really good and coating them in sharkhide. Thoughts? Going with VF4 reeds. Will I have a problem running my stock rubber manifolds with these reeds? Finally, a local guy is selling a Toomey radiator for $150 in good condition. Is this any better that the $90 oversized ones you see everywhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATVridinMaNiAc Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Stock manifolds work fine. You will have to cut the rubber tabs off though. Easy with like a razor blade Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Can't VF4's convert from round inlets to square inlets, or am I trippin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 (edited) Can't VF4's convert from round inlets to square inlets, or am I trippin?They'll run better with the factory stuffer in it. Edited February 20, 2014 by trickedcarbine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5.0 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 If I was doin this I'd go with a small serval. Some pro circuits and maybe some 28mm keihins. Then some baddass suspension. One of those new fangled rubber insulated sets of bars and some sweet Hiper Tech 3 wheels. I never had a problem shifting my stock cylinder bike much when trail riding. Only drag racing. But all the fancy bearing mods would be cool. Heavy duty clutch junk too. Pancake bearing, hinson basket and maybe a slingshot lockup with way light springs for an easy clutch pull. Longer than stock anti vibe steering stem too and a fancy steering stabilizer. Not one of the junky stick ones. Puck style on top. Some yfz dual piston brake calipers all the way around with some cool new rotors prob from jd. Prob his sprocket and rotor guards too. And then a roundhouse swinger and shit can that stock setup. Maybe an ELKA rear suspension link? PRM front bumper and wide grab bar. A set of wide peg nerf bars with heel guards. Maybe the XFRs. I could go on with the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willaduncan Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 You can have a stock cylinder keeping up with a small serval in real world and hp numbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5.0 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Can ya have nikisil cylinders, twice the cooling capacity, and not be on the ragged edge? You can get shit tons of power out of stock cylinders. But I'm talking about cleaning up some castings and slapping a "stock" serval cylinder on. Not having to worry about porting and all the other crap that comes with wicked stock cylinders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 couple thoughts. dave's "dream build" would be a lot of fun to ride. if your stock cylinders are in good shape then why not just run them on the build. if the bottom end is done right the top end can be switched out later. i'd do the trans work on a bone stock bike. it to me makes all the difference in the world. my ole trail bike i ran 15/39 ( actual honda axle in it) i loved it in he trails but my 350 was setup to be very broad power. just crused around in 3rd and 2nd most all the time. with the trans work you can mostly shift with no clutch at all. just let off for a split second make the shift and on ya go. down shifts same way the "hot rods" brand cranks are all that i will use anymore. on 10 mills i like tdr's forged cranks. so whoever you get the crank from INSIST its a hot rods , a billet anodized basket is a must along with a bearing pusher. lockup is not really necessary. you would be surprised what a good clutch can hold down for power with just 15% springs. cr lever setup with quick adjust your set! unless your running really heavy paddle and riding in really heavy sand , and slip the clutch a lot ( not necessary if the motor has midrange) you might look into a lockup. but even then on riders i dont like them unless the motor is just too stout and its eating clutches. ( only time that happens is on bigg heavy paddle sand drag builds so far.) just a few idears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 great advise from dave and cam. i would vote for a cast serval too like dave mentioned however if money is tight then stick to the stock cylinder. suspension makes a ton of difference regardless of the motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 If I was doin this I'd go with a small serval. Some pro circuits and maybe some 28mm keihins. Then some baddass suspension. One of those new fangled rubber insulated sets of bars and some sweet Hiper Tech 3 wheels. I never had a problem shifting my stock cylinder bike much when trail riding. Only drag racing. But all the fancy bearing mods would be cool. Heavy duty clutch junk too. Pancake bearing, hinson basket and maybe a slingshot lockup with way light springs for an easy clutch pull. Longer than stock anti vibe steering stem too and a fancy steering stabilizer. Not one of the junky stick ones. Puck style on top. Some yfz dual piston brake calipers all the way around with some cool new rotors prob from jd. Prob his sprocket and rotor guards too. And then a roundhouse swinger and shit can that stock setup. Maybe an ELKA rear suspension link? PRM front bumper and wide grab bar. A set of wide peg nerf bars with heel guards. Maybe the XFRs. I could go on with the details.Wow. You almost listed every detail of my bike, just a few differences. 4 mil stock cyl with decent port Trans massaged up Fast clutch and billet basket no lock up CPI 35 pwk +2 antivibe Flexx bars Fox shocks And all the other supporting shit that I over paid for. And yes Cam it's a very fun bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 my banshee framed trail bike was a blast. of course the outlaw was much more fun but its gone now. ( sadface) i ran 30mm pwk's 350 with a lot of midrange, t6 pipes, +2 arms with a stock length round house swingarm, actual 250r rear axle with dual caliper brakes, 87 banshee front spindles and big calipers on the front, one finger brakes on the front yea. anti vibe stem and of course all the lower end stuff the recipe is pretty much the same what works works.. i have an ole 87 im going to slap back together just to go out and do wheelies on when i get bored in the teryx. it will be very similar. but i have a set of SLP pipes for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sycoticbanshee00 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 After talking to pretty much every builder I shipped the jugs to Kevin today. Going with his MX-hardcore port and pump gas domes. Probably go with Jeff for a crank. Couple other questions. Frame, swingarm pegs the whole 9 yards has been powdercoated matte black. I don't want to toss these ugly looking jugs and cases in this nice frame. My powdercoater will do the jugs but wont do the cases unless the rubber mounts are pressed out. I really don't want to have to do that and buy new mounts. How well does hi-temp paint hold up on cases? Not worried about the temp but more or less gas, oil coolant etc spilling and removing paint. or thinking of cleaning them really good and coating them in sharkhide. Thoughts? Going with VF4 reeds. Will I have a problem running my stock rubber manifolds with these reeds? Finally, a local guy is selling a Toomey radiator for $150 in good condition. Is this any better that the $90 oversized ones you see everywhere else? Good luck with that man, he recently setup my banshee and it has nothing but problems. I dropped off my entire bike to him so that he could do a stock stroke, stock carb, dune port build. I told him if it needed a top end to do it. He calls me a few days later and lets me know that he did a compression and leakdown test and that everything was fine. So i get my bike back and decided to change the plugs, first thing i noticed was that the threads were really tight and it took forever to remove just one plug. After that I decided to do a compression check and it only put out 90 psi on both cylinders. We checked the same gauge on my dads 98 dodge ram and that was putting out 135-140 psi. I decided to squirt some oil in the cylinders of my banshee and the psi went up 5-10. Bike ran like shit at dumont and couldn't launch for shit in 2nd gear this past weekend. It kept bogging even with a 180lb rider. First was better, but still pathetic. I call him back and he says that the bike had 145psi stock and 150 after the shaved head. How is 145 psi on a worn top end with a stock head possible? makes no sense. Also I checked my plugs and after just one day they were black and wet. My mix was at 32:1 so It wasn't that rich, he told me to lean it out to 40:1 and mess with the jetting and carburetors. So to sum it up, he said he will try and fix it, but he's going to charge me all over again. The bike obviously left like that from his shop, but he seems to disagree. I had some high expectations based on all of these reviews, but they were far from met. Also the bike doesn't fire right at part throttle, cylinders fire randomly and pop like crazy. Also the timing was only set at +2 and not +4 like he said he left it. I will now look into another builder to set my bike up because the last thing I want to do is go in circles driving back and forth from LA to SD. I'm very disappointed with HJR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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