Abstract Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I just ordered a tors delete kit with idle kit and twist throttle (I was on dirtbike for a long time before I got this banshee) I also ordered a jet kit 290&300 mains, 30 pilot, new gaskets and needle jets, and some intake filters to get rid of the intake box, we'll see next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Just took my carbs and intake manis off, noticed one of my intake manifolds had a bad enough crack I could see through it, I epoxied it, I will buy new ones soon, an I checked my compression, on cylinder is at 100 psi and the other is about 97-98 psi, I read 100-125 psi should be good so I'm guessing I gotta rebuild the top end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Bike now no longer back fires, runs good 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle, any more and and it dies, hold it at half throttle runs good, already stated that I ordered 30 pilot jets, 290s and 300's main jets, tors delete and idle kit, and 2 k&n filters to remove air box, should be here before next weekend so we'll see then, I've heard of people running downwards to 80psi a cylinder before rebuilding, so I'm going to wait a few weeks before I rebuild the top ends, probably do .040 over bore until I can save up for a 4 mil kit and bigger carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Oh just remembered, I pulled a jack ass move the other day, I loosened the air screws a bunch and didn't think of it, ran the bike without intake and lost them, I ordered 2 last night as well, not going to mess with the bike until I get all my new parts next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 My needle has 6 notchs, it was on the 3rd notch and I moved it to the 4th, I adjusted the air screw to 1.5 turns tey were in all the way, but now I have loss of power at full throttle, low rpms is way better then before, I'm going to put the needle on te 3rd notch again and try it again, oh and leak test checked out, don't have a comp test nor have the money right now to buy a tester Just took my carbs and intake manis off, noticed one of my intake manifolds had a bad enough crack I could see through it, I epoxied it, I will buy new ones soon, an I checked my compression, on cylinder is at 100 psi and the other is about 97-98 psi, I read 100-125 psi should be good so I'm guessing I gotta rebuild the top end so how are these two highlighted things possible? couldnt pass a leakdown test with an air leak you can see through. can buy some good used stock intakes cheap. if you have a boost bottle replace it with the stock crossover tube it is what probably caused the tear. Once compression drops so low it will be harder and harder to start with a loss of power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 I did the leak test completely wrong, I made a new one yesterday, I've read of people riding their shees down to 80psi before they rebuild, and that as long as there isn't a 10 psi or greater difference between the 2 it's still tunable? And I did the comp test without my exhaust on, should I do it with it on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 wont matter if exhaust is on or off, should still be tunable but the end result may be slightly diffrent then a fresh rebuild. so make sure when you do rebuild it you check jetting again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Would you happen to know the compression ratios for different bores? When I rebuild I'm planning on doing a basic .040 over with new pistons rings gaskets ect and maybe a cool head? And was wondering if I can add a 4 mil crank to that setup? I know I'll most likely have to re jet then, just worried more or less on my internal engine setup. And another question, I've read fmf exhaust isn't great, wich is what I have, what exhaust should I run for best performance? I like how toomey t5's sound, heard they were good, but also heard cpi's were good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Well did the tors delete today, rejeted to 290 main jet and 30 pilot and a 5 clip needle on 3rd clip, besides clutch slipping, and my rear end not feeling safe at all (gotta look into that) the shee is running great, no bogging out, clean transition through the power band, and there's power through 1/4 throttle to full throttle, plus the twist throttle don't feel to bad, now tomorrow gotta install the idle kit, look into why my axle feels so loose, and order a clutch, you guys have helped me allot, thanks so much I greatly appreciate it guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Would you happen to know the compression ratios for different bores? When I rebuild I'm planning on doing a basic .040 over with new pistons rings gaskets ect and maybe a cool head? And was wondering if I can add a 4 mil crank to that setup? I know I'll most likely have to re jet then, just worried more or less on my internal engine setup. And another question, I've read fmf exhaust isn't great, wich is what I have, what exhaust should I run for best performance? I like how toomey t5's sound, heard they were good, but also heard cpi's were good? You change the compression ratio by milling the stock head, or changing the dome in an after market head. decreasing the area above the piston at top dead center will yield the higher compression. you only want to bore to get the cylinder back to round instead of oval.If you add a 4 mill crank you will need to have the cylinder ported to take full advantage of the extra stroke. As for exhaust, the fmf's are a trail pipe with low to mid curve. CPI is a drag pipe, or top end pipe. the fmf responds decent to porting.but their is alot better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Bike now no longer back fires, runs good 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle, any more and and it dies, hold it at half throttle runs good, already stated that I ordered 30 pilot jets, 290s and 300's main jets, tors delete and idle kit, and 2 k&n filters to remove air box, should be here before next weekend so we'll see then, I've heard of people running downwards to 80psi a cylinder before rebuilding, so I'm going to wait a few weeks before I rebuild the top ends, probably do .040 over bore until I can save up for a 4 mil kit and bigger carbs any thing under 100 psi, in my opinion is done. I have seen banshee cylinders on the original bore so worn and egged out they had to be sleeved. Low compression is a warning sign that you need to tear down and investigate why and what is out of spec.Remove the pipes and see if the piston skirt is melted or grooved out. Oh and every banshee i have ran with low compression wouldnt idle for sh.t and got harder and harder to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Hit another snag, did the tors delete, rejeted to 30 pilot 290 main, ran the bike with open carbs it ran excellent, I installed the idle screws and intakes now the shee is bogging out at high rpms past second gear, and if I let off and shift it bogs out at lower rpms, but it bogs and opens bogs and opens but won't go, I'm thinking of putting my 300 main jets in and seeing if it changes anything, any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Open carbs? Hope you mean with pod air filters not just open. Where are your air/fuel screws set at. Are your carbs synced properly? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I would continue to chase jetting when the top end needs rebuilt...................NOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03DMshee Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Uman....you have patience like ive never seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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