aleyesonme Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Your 18/38 is a 2.11 ratio. IMO from what you are describing you need around a 2.05 ratio. A 19/39 is a 2.05 & a 19/38 is a 2.00, both ratios would lower your rpm at the finish line. Got to go, but will elaborate more this weekend. Sorry, I had a 19/40 as a 2.00 ratio. It was incorrect & I made the change to correct it in the post. Ok dont foeget about me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10milmike Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 These are thw two guys inwas waiting to chime in. Tedder and Bryan and very very knowledgeable when it comes asphalt. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy note 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10milmike Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 On my 535 I run a 18/37 that is a 2.05 Ratio I also run a 20x10x10 AR sr 23 tire. I just bought a set of 20x8x10 AR now, Listen to Bryan he knows his shit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 With a 4 bolt hub you can go with a 37 in the rear. I agree with keeping the tires you have. Also extending you swingarm will help from slaming on the bar.. Great times by the way i cant wait to hit the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleyesonme Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Fellow riders thank you so much again for point me in the right direction.......i fee so loved, im bout to shed a tear..lol. i think imma start out with the 19 39 first since thats the most cost effecient.., plus a good idea as far as the ratio. I mainly dirt drag but ao many people roind here only race asphalt orbthe street...and i just wanna be ready for either occasion, surfrjag i think i maybe i had my bar to high thats lrolly why it was hitting hard.....really dont want a longer swingarm....likebfor my bike to look srock as possible so i can get called out...lol.......people love to call out plain jane looking shees, until they see me run and be like wholly shit......again thanks again so much to u all tat helped me........i really appreciate it...ill keep ya posted on my results......and i just looked at my time slip and my 60 foot was a 1.544.......thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10milmike Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Your bar should be about 1 1/2 inchs off the ground. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy note 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleyesonme Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Your bar should be about 1 1/2 inchs off the ground. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy note 3 Thankyou....i had no idea.....whatever i have it set up it did good tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10milmike Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 If it's to high the bike will hop if it's to low it will just spin. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy note 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedder Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 When discussing or getting final drive ratio/sprocket recommendations keep in mind what primary gear ratio you'll be using. An overdrive ratio will allow for a smaller front sprocket. Just like everything else - Get a solid baseline recommendation and hit the track. Those ET slips don't lie. Sometimes they prove you're not as smart as you think you are lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2strokes4u Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I ran 17/38 with 18/10/10 ARs and 5th gear topped out right at the 1/8. I was on street so hopefully they marked it correctly. I changed to the 18/38 to test out and went much farther than the 1/8th. I have a 443 cub on gas. Im also 205lbs on a stock frame so the bike is heavy as shit with me on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Those ET slips don't lie. Sometimes they prove your not as smart as you think you are lol understatement lol. not everything you try is going to be a improvement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleyesonme Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 I ran 17/38 with 18/10/10 ARs and 5th gear topped out right at the 1/8. I was on street so hopefully they marked it correctly. I changed to the 18/38 to test out and went much farther than the 1/8th. I have a 443 cub on gas. Im also 205lbs on a stock frame so the bike is heavy as shit with me on it. Im 200 myself so guess we in the same boat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ok dont foeget about me LOL! 1st good job on that time with what you have. 2nd there has been some very good advice given on the subject. Lastly, my little tidbit of information. I will 1st start by saying MPH really don't mean shit, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have a factor. I gave 2 gear ratios that should put you close to what you need to bring the mph up. The problem is, you might be getting to the point of picking up MPH, but losing ET. Without doing other things to make the gearing work. The only way to find out is try the 2.05 ratio to start. If it picks up in both ET & MPH that's a good thing. The object is to keep going in the direction that shows the improvement you want. When it stops going the direction you want, then go back to your last desired set-up or figure out why it didn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d00med Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 (edited) LOL! 1st good job on that time with what you have. 2nd there has been some very good advice given on the subject. Lastly, my little tidbit of information. I will 1st start by saying MPH really don't mean shit, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have a factor. I gave 2 gear ratios that should put you close to what you need to bring the mph up. The problem is, you might be getting to the point of picking up MPH, but losing ET. Without doing other things to make the gearing work. The only way to find out is try the 2.05 ratio to start. If it picks up in both ET & MPH that's a good thing. The object is to keep going in the direction that shows the improvement you want. When it stops going the direction you want, then go back to your last desired set-up or figure out why it didn't work. Wouldn't picking up MPH be a good thing? I thought MPH dictated how quick you can go and how low your ET is based on the 60 foot. So wouldnt it actually mean something? If he picked up MPH he can always tweak stuff to get the 60 ft and ET back thus making it faster, no? Edited January 17, 2014 by d00med Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Sometimes mph just means it took too long to get from point A to point B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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