trickedcarbine Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 OP Rules! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 A for effort for sure! A few years back DMR acquired some pipe building software and he built several sets of pipes using a few different values. One set he built looked VERY similar to yours. He also used stainless and polished them when done. They looked good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lms1977 Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 nice job cant wait to hear how they work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Guns Racing Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Thanks! Once.I get these kinda dialed in where I'm wanting them I think I will try my hand at a set of inframes. As of now I am only concentrating on small bore (66mm) stock clinder engines. Its all I have ready access to at the moment however I may try my hand at some big bore setups later down the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 DAMN need to get them baby's tucked in some son!! the program should have given a specific stinger size and length.. if a motor is this value and a pipe is designed from those values, the resulting pipe dimensions should end up the same no matter who designed the pipe. i mean math is math.. but thats a really abrupt change in the first diffuser from the main header section.. makes them have a pretty particular shape for sure.. that black bike up a few pages is freaking beeeautiful.. those pipes took a long time to build and design they had to cost a shit ton trinity inframe pipes are some of my fav pipes for a 4 mill stock cylinder.... and stainless never looks bad ( unless you treat it really bad) on the welding,, aht i found: the best thing would be a very good quality TIG or a very small gas torch. i was thinking of trying a 00 or 000 tip. but heat control is really critical. a TIG with very small wire seems to work the best.. when i dig all this stuff out again in a few months i'm going to run a .20 tungsten and use .20 mig wire for filler. see how that goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertR Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Nice work Johnny!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Guns Racing Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Lol I'm working on tucking them in and yes I came out with a specific stinger length that I greatly overshot. Figured I would trim them once on the bike and havnt gotten to that point yet. Yes I wanna snag a good tig welder up and see what I can do with that. I'm hoping for much smoother results but time will tell. Last night I redesigned the header pipe and all in all the next set should fit muuuuuch better. I have a question now tho. I'm wanting to get a single piece header pipe made, from thr flange all the way up to the first defuser. I've looked into hydro forming and not sure how well that would work so I am shying away from it. Anyone have any ideas? It would look much cleaner and be more efficient for me to be able to just weld two halves together vs 10 sections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Guns Racing Posted December 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 I have a question now tho. I'm wanting to get a single piece header pipe made, from thr flange all the way up to the first defuser. I've looked into hydro forming and not sure how well that would work so I am shying away from it. Anyone have any ideas? It would look much cleaner and be more efficient for me to be able to just weld two halves together vs 10 sections No one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87sheerips Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 awesome man. Why not do this? I think you will definitely succeed... You may not get every last HP out of the motor but who cares. Let me know if I can laser cut you a stamp to really make them your own when yur done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Johnny boy do you have access to a press Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Guns Racing Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 awesome man. Why not do this? I think you will definitely succeed... You may not get every last HP out of the motor but who cares. Let me know if I can laser cut you a stamp to really make them your own when yur done I've already got thought about this lol that would be really cool. And wayne yes I do 30 ton hydraulic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 DAMN need to get them baby's tucked in some son!! the program should have given a specific stinger size and length.. if a motor is this value and a pipe is designed from those values, the resulting pipe dimensions should end up the same no matter who designed the pipe. i mean math is math.. but thats a really abrupt change in the first diffuser from the main header section.. makes them have a pretty particular shape for sure.. that black bike up a few pages is freaking beeeautiful.. those pipes took a long time to build and design they had to cost a shit ton trinity inframe pipes are some of my fav pipes for a 4 mill stock cylinder.... and stainless never looks bad ( unless you treat it really bad) on the welding,, aht i found: the best thing would be a very good quality TIG or a very small gas torch. i was thinking of trying a 00 or 000 tip. but heat control is really critical. a TIG with very small wire seems to work the best.. when i dig all this stuff out again in a few months i'm going to run a .20 tungsten and use .20 mig wire for filler. see how that goes. cam, have you tried any silicon bronze filler with a tig? kinda like brazing but with small heat zone like a tig. just make sure to get the flux free filler as it is also used for normal brazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 i havent really gotten everything back out and worked on it much lately. i did try the small mig wire as filler and the tiny tungsten that worked great really.. a stamp would be bad ass to have... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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