uman1030 Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Getting ready to do a full rebuild for my first time on the ole Banshee. Ive have been building motors for many years now. Tons of small 2 and 4 stroke engines and automobile engines. I am pretty familiar with most aspects of mechanics and tools as its part of my trade but ive never actually split the cases on my Banshee. I'm very confident with this project as i can disassemble and reassemble about anything but id like to possibly have some advice from some of the more qualified people on this forum as to some of the do's and donts and common mistakes that happen and also some tips of things not to forget or may not be mentioned in the service manual or possibly an easier method used by skilled builders. Ive been doing a lot of reading of different walk-through and helpful posts and i have alot of ideas and thoughts but im sure they're are some helpful tips still out there I have missed. First id like to put together a list of small stuff i would need to order before hand. Like some of the OEM stuff like the locking bend tab washers, full gasket/seal kit and threebond 1211 case sealer. Things of this nature. Including some of the minor upgrades people have found over the years to add to reliability such as the full c clips for trans and crank as opposed to the half moon OEM style ones, steel kick-start idler gear bushing and so on. then i would like to put together a list of helpfull tips like i read some people use a little locktight on the lowercase to make sure crank bearings dont spin. In this build i will be using a hot-rods 4mill long rod crank i purchased from a member it appears to be in descent condition. contemplating replacing the outer bearings they don't seem to have any roughness or friction, spins freely but they may be on the loose side from what I have read and been told. As i said above id like to start with a laundry list of replacement parts needed if any one has a list of these and wants to chime in id very much appreciate it. I would like to have these things sitting on the bench once i start tearing into it rather then get to a point in which i realize i need to order something before i can continue. This will almost inevitably happen i know but Im trying to avoid it as much as possible. Thank you in advance for any input that you feel would help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUSTY05 Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 (edited) I just recently rebuilt my banshee without the help of a manual or no help from anyone..tore it down to the frame powdercoated everything and completely rebuilt the engine.Ill give you a tip you might or might not already know lol..the crank seals go in BEFORE you seal the cases together... Guess im just use to 4 stroke engines where you knock the seals in afterwards generally..live and learn! Good luck and have fun! Edited December 10, 2013 by DUSTY05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Don't forget to seal the key way on the clutch side of the crank with some import grey RTV! I'd mod the shift star, shift shaft, timing plate +4, shift pro detent, maybe cut the trans (pro-mod) and port match the top case half to match the transfer ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Don't forget to seal the key way on the clutch side of the crank ^^^^^^^^ THIS^^^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 a used crank can be a real gamble, at least if it fails you`ll know the previous owner had some fun with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Little sealing trick for multi cyl motors. Drop the base cyls on and just finger tighten the nuts. Set the head on and step torque it to the cylinders. Then torque the base nuts. That sequence tends to keep the head from wiggling as much. For all the little stuff, just make an itemized list off the FAST web site and call Jeff or Cody and it will get to you ASAP. Also they are doing some holiday stuff soon so good timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoksch Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 I did my build with a used hot rods crank. Everything looked good, replaced outer bearings. 2 rides later a rod bearing failed. I'd recommend a new crank Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk now Free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Kind of what I figured. Wish I wouldn't have bought the used crank at this point, the savings was minimal compared to the risk. I did contact crankworks to see about a price on rebuild I may go that route just for peace of mind. When browsing sponsors I didnt see any one offering crank rebuilds but may have missed it if any one wants to point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Got a reply back from crank works and lawd is that shit expensive! new cranks basically $400 having one rebuilt could cost that much plus what ever you paid for the used one you have. We charge $185.00 labor to inspect and rebuild. Main bearings are $24.00 each ($96.00 for all 4). If you need new rod kits they run about $105.00 each ($210.00 for both). Thank you, Crank Works, Inc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Someone brought this up not to long ago, some one else said anything under a 10 mil isn't worth rebuilding. I can see why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 You can get a vito's 4mil long rod crank with one maxload bearing and one 7 ball bearing for $415.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 You can get a vito's 4mil long rod crank with one maxload bearing and one 7 ball bearing for $415.00Fuuuck. Who has that steal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 read on some of the first year bikes they didnt have the ridge cut in the top case where the crank half moon clip goes so you cant even use the full clip. going to have to assume an 89 falls in this category? Any one familiar with that year engine and know if this is true for 89? i have an 89 and a 2000 im doing a 4 mill first on my 89 since its much more worn, not abused but just more used obviously. My 2000 is actually pretty mint i got it from an idiot who thought the trans was blown cause his nephew blew the clutch to hell. Reason being he had the clutch cable adjusted so tight it wasn't even fully disengaging. Had that thing fixed about an hour after i bought it lol and it looks to have barely even been road not a single tool mark and still has 120 compression. plan is to make the 89 my duner/dragger and the 2000 a sweet trail bike man is this adding up amazingly fast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Fuuuck. Who has that steal? e-bay all-day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Jeff at FAST is going to do my whole build. New 421 serval, promod trans, 35mm pwk's figured the extra money is worth the peace of mind knowing everything is done by some one who does this all the time as opposed to me doing it and rereading my manual a million times to make sure every little washer is in place etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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