XxHatredxX13 Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hey, so i just bought this 1998 banshee.. i've been riding it for about a month now and have seen no noticeable problems with it. However, as i took it for a ride yesterday evening about an hour or so into the ride I decided to go ahead back to the house and park it for the day, so I pulled in the clutch and shifted from 3rd down to 1st and held the clutch lever in as i put on the brake to slow down and turn around back to the house... well when i did that, it seems the clutch went out on me and I heard the RPM shoot up while i was still holding in the clutch (and of course a pull on the bike from the clutch giving out)... and now when i pull the clutch lever, there's no pressure what so ever and when i try to pull it out of neutral with the clutch lever held in, you just get a light kick (like you would with not holding it in at all and just trying to shift into 1st that way). I'd of course not want to ride it anyway as it is but i did check to see what'd happen anyway... when the clutch lever is pulled, you can see the actuator moving accordingly. I know i'm going to most likely going to have to take it apart to see for sure what the problem is.. i've also tried tightening the clutch cable up by the lever (which did bring back the "pressure" to the clutch lever) but i still got the same problem... I pull in the clutch lever and try to pull out of neutral and it acts as if i'm not pulling in the clutch at all. I was just wondering if maybe someone who knows more about the mechanics of these things could give me an idea as to what might be wrong with it before i go ahead and tear it apart looking blindly for a problem... p.s. sorry for the long post, i'm sure there's alot of useless info and probably some stuff that i'm missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxHatredxX13 Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 just another bit of probably useless info.. when the clutch went out, i was pretty well slowed down. it just gave out probably about 5 seconds too soon before i was planning to make a turn around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Sounds like the ball welded inside the tranny shaft. Buy a Clymer manual and pull the clutch cover. It's possible you may have to split the cases to get the clutch push rod and ball out. Worst case, you may need to replace the trans shaft. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this probably isn't going to be an easy fix. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 (edited) Part# 22 in this pic. http://www.boats.net/images/diagrams/yamaha/ATV/2005/YFZ350T/IMAGES/CLUTCH.png Edited December 6, 2013 by Starwriter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Sounds like the ball welded inside the tranny shaft. Buy a Clymer manual and pull the clutch cover. It's possible you may have to split the cases to get the clutch push rod and ball out. Worst case, you may need to replace the trans shaft. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this probably isn't going to be an easy fix.X2 but before we jump in and pull the motor, pull the pressure plate off. ( 6 10mm bolts hold it on) take them out. There will be springs behind them. Pull that plate off. Now take a magnet on a stick ( usually at any autozone next to the register) and stick it into the middle if the shaft that was right behind the pressure plate. (There was a screw with a nut on the front on the pressure plate that went into that shaft. Can't miss it)If your lucky, a ball bearing will come out. Maybe "welded" to a shaft. As long as they both come out your good. If you can't get it out, your in it for the long run. Search around on here, there is a service manual. I believe that should show you how to remove everything. If you have any questions just ask. I'm assuming you know the basics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxHatredxX13 Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 (edited) ah, wonderful lol.. alright, i'll pull the cover off and try to see if i can confirm... yeah, i know the basics and can find my way around. thanks for the replys Edited December 6, 2013 by XxHatredxX13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 also.....it welded because of the design AND your riding habits. They have a habit of welding if you like to slowdown while continually holding the clutch in.....a pancake bearing will eliminate that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxHatredxX13 Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 yeah, this is the first time i've owned a clutch atv so i wasn't really aware that something like this could happen... the design sounds pretty stupid to me but whatever, now i'm aware that i can't coast with the clutch held in for a extended period of time like that. I will be getting the pancake bearing though whenever i go to fix it up. weather is pretty shit right now though so i'm just waiting for a reasonable time to take it apart and check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxHatredxX13 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Alright, well i finally found time to go out and start taking it apart to see what happened.. pulled the cover and pressure plate off and went to take the adjuster out and luckily, the ball and push rod was welded to the adjuster and got them all out in one piece.. as apposed to them being stuck inside the shaft. From here so far what i have bought is a new push rod, ball, and a pancake bearing with the adjuster, so i'm just waiting for them to be shipped to my house.. like i said before though, this is the first time that i've owned a clutch atv so i'm not sure how this all works entirely... i'd imagine all i'd have to do is just replace the rod, ball, and adjuster (with pancake bearing) and readjust it so the actuator arrow and tension point arrow on the case meet up, and be good to go... or is there more work normally required? Edited December 27, 2013 by XxHatredxX13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Wow, you got really lucky. As I recommended before, buy a Clymer manual, and just put it together as shown in the manual. (Line up the pressure plate arrow, torque the pressure plate bolts, etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxHatredxX13 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Wow, you got really lucky. As I recommended before, buy a Clymer manual, and just put it together as shown in the manual. (Line up the pressure plate arrow, torque the pressure plate bolts, etc) alright sounds good, i'll search around for a manual so i don't screw anything up. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Yup. You got extremeky lucky like starwriter said. And it also sounds like your on your way to bring a decent mechanic on these things. To see how the clutch works just pull the clutch length while you have the cover off. ... it should help you figure it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03DMshee Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Lucky fukker! I had to split cases! Good for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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