sheerider11 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 The only thing that has been emphasized to me over and over is warm up time. Not heat cycles just kick, and idle/ a few blips, and just easy riding till up to temp. Then go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Warm up time has more to do with the pistons. Forged pistons will expand faster than the sleeve if run hard upon cold start causing a seize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaN Powersports Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Seating/running in a new ring has do to with material (ring and cylinder). Nikasil doesn't need much 'massaging' the ring home. Surface finish is key to a better ring life, and key to the type of "run in" used. With a rough (300-ish grit) crosshatch, you would want to vary RPM's, and avoid a hard load (driving side pressures up on skirts) for a few heat cycles to develop a good plateau to the peaks of the crosshatches-this will ensure a glaze free break-in, and the 'peaky' crosshatch can act as cutters on the piston skirt until they are plateaued. Ask for a plateau hone after initial crosshatching, and/or a finish with 400-600 grit, it needs less care and can be run as intended with less risk on today's high quality oils. Oils-run what you run-the switching oil, or ratio thing has no logical value-in fact adding oil to the mix makes the air/fuel more lean through the same jet. Other than that, run it like you stole it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Seating/running in a new ring has do to with material (ring and cylinder). Nikasil doesn't need much 'massaging' the ring home. Surface finish is key to a better ring life, and key to the type of "run in" used. With a rough (300-ish grit) crosshatch, you would want to vary RPM's, and avoid a hard load (driving side pressures up on skirts) for a few heat cycles to develop a good plateau to the peaks of the crosshatches-this will ensure a glaze free break-in, and the 'peaky' crosshatch can act as cutters on the piston skirt until they are plateaued. Ask for a plateau hone after initial crosshatching, and/or a finish with 400-600 grit, it needs less care and can be run as intended with less risk on today's high quality oils. Oils-run what you run-the switching oil, or ratio thing has no logical value-in fact adding oil to the mix makes the air/fuel more lean through the same jet. Other than that, run it like you stole it Fucking windycityjohn way of saying "just run the bitch" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Fucking windycityjohn way of saying "just run the bitch" Yeah, but now he UNDERSTANDS the details of the topic. Not just following the advice of a bunch of internet clowns how tell him to just fire it up and go pin it to win it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Yeah, but now he UNDERSTANDS the details of the topic. Not just following the advice of a bunch of internet clowns how tell him to just fire it up and go pin it to win it. I'll say this again just like I've said it before Term- "break in" Definition- "The distance between the trailer and the starting line" Put all that he/she/would/could/can/can't/this/that......bs in the trash. If it meets or exceeds a pre start check list, when that fugger fires put your skid lid on and ride it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 I planned on doing a few heat cylces and then breaking it in hard. Done alot of reading on the motoman hard break in and thats pretty much what most of you suggested as well. I'll stick with my klotz technicplate for break in because thats what i have ran and always will run. As for the type of hone that is being done on my cynliders i am not entirely sure but it is being done by jeff at f.a.s.t. So im sure it will be a quality job and he will have some input on this subject too. Thanks for all of your input and experience on this subject as this will be my first engine break in and i want to get a lot of life out of my engine as do most people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 I planned on doing a few heat cylces and then breaking it in hard. Done alot of reading on the motoman hard break in and thats pretty much what most of you suggested as well. I'll stick with my klotz technicplate for break in because thats what i have ran and always will run. As for the type of hone that is being done on my cynliders i am not entirely sure but it is being done by jeff at f.a.s.t. So im sure it will be a quality job and he will have some input on this subject too. Thanks for all of your input and experience on this subject as this will be my first engine break in and i want to get a lot of life out of my engine as do most people. It's good to do things right..don't get me wrong, but you're waaay over thinking this aspect of engine care. You should be concerned with proper assembly and tuning . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaN Powersports Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 It's good to do things right..don't get me wrong, but you're waaay over thinking this aspect of engine care. You should be concerned with proper assembly and tuning . I know I wrote a small book above-haha But, I agree, the tune and set-up is by far more important! Glazed cylinder/rings won't matter, or stand a chance with an air leak or lean carb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Well imo the assembly is fairly simple as i have a clymers manual that explains proper top end assembly and torque specs etc.. But as for checking for an air leak will be the first priority when i do the first heat cycle. Im taking proper care to clean everything thouroghly to get proper seals in all the necessary places and after reading about jetting and fine tuning all my jetting along with cleaning the carbs i think i am pretty much all set in that regards. I am running the main one size fatter than recomendations to ensure i am not lean like i was when i initially blew it up. I have knowledge in tuning and checking for air leaks but as for breaking in a top end im a newb. Just wanted to clarify i wasnt over looking tuning or air leaks at all those were the first thinga i did research on and fined tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 .. But as for checking for an air leak will be the first priority when i do the first heat cycle. you do the leakdown BEFORE you start it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaN Powersports Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Well imo the assembly is fairly simple as i have a clymers manual that explains proper top end assembly and torque specs etc.. But as for checking for an air leak will be the first priority when i do the first heat cycle. Im taking proper care to clean everything thouroghly to get proper seals in all the necessary places and after reading about jetting and fine tuning all my jetting along with cleaning the carbs i think i am pretty much all set in that regards. I am running the main one size fatter than recomendations to ensure i am not lean like i was when i initially blew it up. I have knowledge in tuning and checking for air leaks but as for breaking in a top end im a newb. Just wanted to clarify i wasnt over looking tuning or air leaks at all those were the first thinga i did research on and fined tuned. Sounds like you're on the right track Break-in on the 2's with all of the needle/roller bearings involved is not as crucial as, say, a car engine with all babbit bearings. The rings in the bore are basically the only 'sliding' friction component-seat 'em good, and you're golden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 .. But as for checking for an air leak will be the first priority when i do the first heat cycle. you do the leakdown BEFORE you start it. Obviously. I wasn't referring to a leak down test i was referring to spraying my possible leak points with starter fluid and listening to the engine to find the possible leaks just like with a tire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Obviously. I wasn't referring to a leak down test i was referring to spraying my possible leak points with starter fluid and listening to the engine to find the possible leaks just like with a tire. sounds awesome turbo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 sounds awesome turbo! Where could i get a leak down tester? Im sure this is better than the old school starter fluid way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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