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Why not just use a proportioning valve for the brakes like many race cars/trucks?

 

That's a good idea, but Here's the problem I see with that.

 

Automotive brake line pressure is going to be in the 800 to 1200PSI range. I bet we aren't getting more than 150 PSI before lockup. I doubt an automotive proportioning valve will be adjustable in that range.

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Here is the facebook page for the left throttle guy. A little more info and updates.

 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Shawftware/619509238078545?ref=br_tf

 

 

Now, I have some more ideas.

Although a left throttle and clutch could be rideable, I can easily foresee getting pitched off the bike when you're trying to launch a sloped to the left, tree shot.

So, put on the left thumb throttle. That's easy.

Put on a sportbike clutch master and plumb it to the front brakes. That's easy.

On the rear brake pedal, make a sleeve that slides over the tube for the brake pedal. Put on a bigger washer to keep it from sliding off. Weld a tab on the tube for the clutch cable.  Fab spring mounts and an up limit stop for the lever in relation to the pedal, and install a spring. build a cable housing mount off the frame. Possibly off the swingarm pivot bolt and the hole in the gusset above it that was for a brake light switch. Then build an adjustable limit stop that stops the new clutch arm when the clutch gets fully disengaged. The spring will compress at this point, allowing the brake pedal to keep moving. Make a slotted arm where the brake pedal attaches to the master cylinder clevis to allow the clutch to be disengaged before applying the rear brake. Motion Pro will make you a clutch cable any way you want it. The end result will be a pedal that you push part way to disengage the clutch, and if you continue pushing farther, it will apply the rear brake. You will feel the point where it's going to start applying the rear brake as the spring on the pedal will start to compress at that point. 

 

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/cables/

 

 

A clutch pancake bearing is going to be a necessity with this design as you will be coasting with the clutch disengaged a lot and even possibly unintentionally resting your foot on the pedal. I'm also thinking a tether kill switch is very important for you.

 

Good luck with everything and hope you get back to riding soon. I have this design in my head. If you need more info, PM me.

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Starwriter has given this some serious thought.

No doubt! But it could work maybe. The idea reminds me of the old ford tractors with 2 stage clutch.

OP- Where you from?

I have two small kiddos and a lot of times one will go with me to feed cows or whatever on my utility four wheeler. I keep my right hand on the handlebars and left hand on the kid and ride it one handed all over the place. If you figure out the clutch you can do it.

 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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Since seeing this post, it reminded me of a video I saw recently somewhere. There was a guy in TX. that was drag racing 1/8 mile asphalt with one arm. I'm pretty sure Jay Shafer posted the vid, but I haven't been able to find it or contact Jay. He's a member here, but his PM box must be full. I'm still trying to get ahold of Jay about it.

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I don't know if anybody here is familiar with cz dirt bikes but I have a couple and you only have to use the clutch to take off. It will shift without clutching in between gears. For this guy with this much dedication to still ride I would send my cz engine to a builder if the builder was will to look and see if they would be willing to attempt to modify the bottom end. With the clutch attached to the foot pedal he could just use it to take off and not have to worry about clutching between gears.

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