4 mil question

[KaN Powersports]

The trade offs are (for what it's worth); Long rod increases leverage a bit, and the stock stroke revs out quicker. The stroker engine makes more power but is more complicated to get it right. The long rod can be set up quite inexpensive in comparison.

 

The spacer plate is a bad idea because the piston goes lower than the ports at BDC (and this is worsened with a spacer plate) causing both timing and flow issues. The stock ports are nowhere near ideal for the bore/stroke combo. To do a stock cylinder stroker correctly you have to; 1-have the domes/stock head cut to accommodate the extra stroke 2-Port the cylinders to correct both timing and area to match the new configuration. 3- Modify the intake and transfer port tunnels to accommodate both the new porting, and the new bore/stroke combo.

 

The long rod set-up consists of building the crank with 115 rods, and porting is more of an option, not a requirement. It will run better than stock, and is great place to start. It can be done quite cheaply in comparison to other builds.

 

The biggest trade off begins with your budget mainly. If money were no issue at all, than the sky is the limit and the options are just as limitless.

[Surfrjag]

LOL.......In that case, why not just keep your motor the same till it's so wore out that a tow strap is needed to start it?

 

i dont understand the question, but if said motor is setup well already then why not keep motor the same..

 

The trade offs are (for what it's worth); Long rod increases leverage a bit, and the stock stroke revs out quicker. The stroker engine makes more power but is more complicated to get it right. The long rod can be set up quite inexpensive in comparison.

 

The spacer plate is a bad idea because the piston goes lower than the ports at BDC (and this is worsened with a spacer plate) causing both timing and flow issues. The stock ports are nowhere near ideal for the bore/stroke combo. To do a stock cylinder stroker correctly you have to; 1-have the domes/stock head cut to accommodate the extra stroke 2-Port the cylinders to correct both timing and area to match the new configuration. 3- Modify the intake and transfer port tunnels to accommodate both the new porting, and the new bore/stroke combo.

 

The long rod set-up consists of building the crank with 115 rods, and porting is more of an option, not a requirement. It will run better than stock, and is great place to start. It can be done quite cheaply in comparison to other builds.

 

The biggest trade off begins with your budget mainly. If money were no issue at all, than the sky is the limit and the options are just as limitless.

 

for sake of discussion

what is price of building a 115 rod stock crank? my understanding is, that it runs around $450?

for about that price you can true and weld a stock crank and port your cylinders and be ahead of the game.

 

im also thinking that if someone wants to put $450 into a crank then why wouldnt they be porting the cylinders and modifying the head anyways. if so, they would be once again ahead by going ahead with the 4 mil. even if you do run the spacer place temporarally, the next step would net more overall power (porting and 4mil domes)

[KaN Powersports]

i dont understand the question, but if said motor is setup well already then why not keep motor the same..

 

 

 

for sake of discussion

what is price of building a 115 rod stock crank? my understanding is, that it runs around $450?

for about that price you can true and weld a stock crank and port your cylinders and be ahead of the game.

 

im also thinking that if someone wants to put $450 into a crank then why wouldnt they be porting the cylinders and modifying the head anyways. if so, they would be once again ahead by going ahead with the 4 mil. even if you do run the spacer place temporarally, the next step would net more overall power (porting and 4mil domes)

Some very valid points there...

For comparison's sake:

For tight budget sake-

1-my labor on a O/H 150, Pro X rods about 90 ea, std. bearings about 150-rounded up of course, a long rod crank=480 (Quality parts)

Blaster pistons (cast) about 90 ea cutting stock head 50.

Stock long rod=230 + 480= 710.00

 

2- Hot Rods 4 mil 425-welded 450 pistons 130 ea cutting stock head 50 porting 300 (spacer-or not) for the sake of putting it on here spacer plate ??30 (I don't even know what they cost-haha I make mine when needed)... (This would be a budget oriented 4mill-of course)

Hot Rods basic 4mil=1090-1115

 

I agree about trueing and welding the crank and start the game with a quality port job and set of matching pipes-They'd be needed for either mod anyway

 

There are a lot of variations that would affect both of these, but they both would run better than stock, and when pinching pennies, 380.00 dollars is a lot of gas and oil