AlwaysBroken04 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 I bought a banshee with a bad top end, New top end is in and the carb over flow tubes leak gas and the throttle is sticking (I cleaned carbs with carb cleaner before reinstallation) carbs leaked when I got it too....Now I'm out of ideas (also carb slides have black on them that won't come off?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysBroken04 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 Is it a tuning issue? (they don't seem sync'd) I don't know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysBroken04 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 Also they are stock carbs with TORS dissconnected #280 main jets .040 over toomey t6 pipes toomey 2-1 open air filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 If its leaking from the hose at the bottom of the bowls you may need new float needles they wear out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 It easy to get the cables twisted up when you pull a topend. make sure the slides drop completely at the same time or straighten out the cables. gas overflow is a sign of float adjustment or needle valves not sealing. black on slides is normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysBroken04 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 I will check the cables, check float needles and adjust float height tomorrow...Thanks guys...With the tors boxes still on carbs (dissconnected) is there a simple way to set idle? Because I noticed with a temp gun (during the 3 mins I ran it after new top end for the first heat cycle before I noticed the gas leak) that the left cylinder was running hotter that the right side...sync issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 knob or large screw on top of TORS box under seat adjusts idle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 Buy a proper sync tool from FAST its worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 make sure they close at the same time, lift at the same time and the dots are in the little windows in the sides of the carbs at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 and what Sandking said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysBroken04 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 Just turn the idle screws all the way in then back them out with the same amount of turns until it idles or? Could the carbs sticking be from carb slide friction (black marks on slides?) or weak springs pushing them down? I tightened the caps all the way down...does that adjustvthem? Sorry for sounding like an idiot...first Banshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaN Powersports Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 The slides were originally black (coated). If your leaking out of the vent tubes (like mentioned above) you most likely have a bad needle and seat, or improper float height adjustment. The easiest way to check float height, or needle valve leak with the carb on is to fit a clear hose to the bottom fitting on the float bowl and route it up high next to the carb body. Then open the drain screw with the fuel turned on. Watch the fuel rise in the clear hose and compare it against the side of the carb. If it is much more than a few mm above the float bowl's mounting seam, but stops rising-it's more likely an adjustment. But if is continues to rise, you can assume it's a leaking needle and seat. Then the 'tear apart' can commence-with a better idea of what you are 'going after'..... Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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