Jrod324 Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Hey guys quick question i have a little bogging going on in 1st and 2nd gear is that normal or does it sound like theres a problem in there because after a few seconds the power band kicks in a bat outta hell.... i have reeds fmf pipes uni filters cuz i ride trails dirt and supposedly the guy i bought it from said he ported it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Always been like that or is it a new prob that just arised with temp change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrod324 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Always been like that or is it a new prob that just arised with temp change No i mean the bike gets normally hot not overheating or nothing like that but im just curious why it doesnt take off like some of the bikes i see just straight throttle and book your gone... Is that the timing plate or parts that keep the engine cool make it faster acceleration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Rich on pikot, needle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrod324 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Rich on pikot, needle? Not that i know of any way to make sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Pull choke out a little and see how it acts off idle. If it responds better, the pilot and/or air screw is too lean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Always been like that or is it a new prob that just arised with temp change What Finch meant was, has the motor always been like that, or is it a new problem that arose with outside air temps getting cooler. Cooler air requires richer jetting, and/or airscrew adjustment. Pull choke out a little and see how it acts off idle. If it responds better, the pilot and/or air screw is too lean. ^^^ Excellent suggestion. Try riding it with the choke pulled out a little. If it runs better, you need to adjust your airscrews by turning them in say a 1/2 turn at a time to richen the mixture. If you turn them all the way in, and it runs it's best, then you need the next larger size pilot jets. Be careful not to over-tighten them, you can damage them, and/or the carbs. On a side note, motorcycle carb chokes are actually "enricheners" rather than "chokes". In our carbs, when the "choke" is pulled, a rubber tipped plunger is lifted off an orifice that allows engine vacuum to draw in a tiny bit more fuel to the air fuel mixture richening the air/fuel ratio during cold start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrod324 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Pull choke out a little and see how it acts off idle. If it responds better, the pilot and/or air screw is too lean. What Finch meant was, has the motor always been like that, or is it a new problem that arose with outside air temps getting cooler. Cooler air requires richer jetting, and/or airscrew adjustment. ^^^ Excellent suggestion. Try riding it with the choke pulled out a little. If it runs better, you need to adjust your airscrews by turning them in say a 1/2 turn at a time to richen the mixture. If you turn them all the way in, and it runs it's best, then you need the next larger size pilot jets. Be careful not to over-tighten them, you can damage them, and/or the carbs. On a side note, motorcycle carb chokes are actually "enricheners" rather than "chokes". In our carbs, when the "choke" is pulled, a rubber tipped plunger is lifted off an orifice that allows engine vacuum to draw in a tiny bit more fuel to the air fuel mixture richening the air/fuel ratio during cold start up. No its always ran like this since iv gotten the bike but normally iv seen banshees response time seem faster then when i give my bike gas. By run better on the choke you mean if it responds better when i accelerate? (Reason im asking is cuz since iv had that bike its never really stayed on idling even on neutral iv always had to give it gas for it to stay on i dont know why and neither does the guy that sometimes fixes my bike).. So mess around with the air screw to see where it runs best at? Right now they a 300 main idk the pilot but what would be the next size if i need to up the main/pilot jets? Im a noob sorry lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 For the choke test, I just putt putt. I take off like normal then I let the bike idle while in first or barely hit the gas so it doesn't stall. Then I pull the choke a little and give it some gas. Thats how I fine tune off idle to about 1/4 throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 You need to list all of your mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 and neither does the guy that sometimes fixes my bike) Well that's not good. The guy that did my motor can diagnose my bike over the phone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Still waiting on a mod list. Things I would do if I could get my hands on it. Compression check. Leak down check. Carbs need to be open'd up, cleaned and gone thru. Float height needs to be set to 21mm +/-1mm. Carbs probably need a TORS elimination and idle screws installed. Idle needs to be set with a tach. Carbs need to be sync'd at idle and at 5500ish rpms. Then a plug chop if all other mechanical items check out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrod324 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) You need to list all of your mods. and neither does the guy that sometimes fixes my bike) Well that's not good. The guy that did my motor can diagnose my bike over the phone. Lol sorry strm was helping a friend put throttle cable on and carbs i have fmf pipes reeds mikuni 28mm carbs tors eliminated and no idle screw in carbs and from the guy told me when he sold me the bike he ported the engine a bit (i dont know how to tell if hes lying or not) but thats it i have a couple other mods in mind but i dont know if itll harm my bike in the long run from riding every sunday for a couple hrs Yuh hes some guy my friend found and we go to him due to him being way cheaper then a shop (in miami) but its looking like i might have to visit the shop Edited October 31, 2013 by Jrod324 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrod324 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Still waiting on a mod list. Things I would do if I could get my hands on it. Compression check. Leak down check. Carbs need to be open'd up, cleaned and gone thru. Float height needs to be set to 21mm +/-1mm. Carbs probably need a TORS elimination and idle screws installed. Idle needs to be set with a tach. Carbs need to be sync'd at idle and at 5500ish rpms. Then a plug chop if all other mechanical items check out. Im glad you mentioned the float height someone mention this 21mm to me before but i have no clue as to adjusting the float how do you adjust it. Is a clymers manual my best bet and fixing/figuring out future problems on this monster? (Specially that this is my first shee that i work on myself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Yes, a Clymers manual is one of the keys. IIRC, there is a sticky'd thread of a FSM download on this site. I'm not sure where it is since I already have hardcopy and a pdf of the FSM. FSM = Factory Service Manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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