jacowils Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I have read some people mix there gas and oil with more oil for break in and and ive also read not to do that becuase the more oil will result in a lean condition for the fuel since the mixture has more oil in it. Any insight into this would be great. I want to make sure the break in is done properly to avoid toasting my new top end, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Mix at 32:1 run the engine through 2 or 3 heat cycles, re-torque everything, and then ride it like you stole it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 DON'T use synthetic 2-cycle oil until after the break in.... Syn. oils are too slippery and will not allow the rings to seat properly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 What's better ford or Chevy? You'll get hundreds of different answers. I was told fire it, listen for odd noises, ride it. Double check nuts and bolts, then raise hell. Like I said I was told this way. Some people have these half throttled engine temp, cool downn, idle times, hold it 1/2 throttle for 15 seconds, don't go wide open until 2 weeks. You can do whatever you want. You can call around ask a few sponsors and see what they say, or if you had someone build your motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdgriff Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I got around 800 hours on my 421 without a rebuild. What I did was ran klotz super tech @ 32:1, I did 5 heat cycles and for 1 tank of gas I just drove down the road going up to the power band, lightly getting into the power band for 4 gears and then I would hammer into it for about 5 seconds and then back off of it. I did this for about 20 min at a time and then let it cool off for about 30 min. I did this process for 1 full tank of gas and it worked great for me. But as stated before, there are many methods for break in, that's just how I was taught Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 What's better ford or Chevy? You'll get hundreds of different answers. I was told fire it, listen for odd noises, ride it. Double check nuts and bolts, then raise hell. Like I said I was told this way. Some people have these half throttled engine temp, cool downn, idle times, hold it 1/2 throttle for 15 seconds, don't go wide open until 2 weeks. You can do whatever you want. You can call around ask a few sponsors and see what they say, or if you had someone build your motor ^^^ Exactly! Mix the same oil and fuel ratio you plan to run always. For seating the rings, the main thing you need to do is rev it thru 3rd then 4th mid to 3/4 throttle, then immediately decel thru 4th then 3rd. This will create high vacuum in the motor and clean out the ring shavings from staying in the ring grooves. Rinse and repeat a couple more times. Then ride it like you stole it. Just make sure your jetting is close and not too rich or you'll glaze the cylinders and crap up the ring grooves and the rings will not seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 ^^^ Exactly! Mix the same oil and fuel ratio you plan to run always. For seating the rings, the main thing you need to do is rev it thru 3rd then 4th mid to 3/4 throttle, then immediately decel thru 4th then 3rd. This will create high vacuum in the motor and clean out the ring shavings from staying in the ring grooves. Rinse and repeat a couple more times. Then ride it like you stole it. Just make sure your jetting is close and not too rich or you'll glaze the cylinders and crap up the ring grooves and the rings will not seat. Being close on the jetting may be a little difficult seeing as how im going from a bone stocker to a mid-modified shee and not to mention its already down to below 40 degrees here in michigan. I bought 290's thru 350's for mains so i have a bunch to choose from. This could get tricky becuase i have to do the heat cycles before i can do a WOT plug chop correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 who did the porting? elevation? air temp is -40*F, all day? Need a complete mod list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 No port work. Elevation is 700ft above sea level. And read it a again it says its already below 40 NOT 40 below.. .030 over wisecos K & n pods Boyesen reeds Wkr head with 21cc domes Fmf fattys with turbinecore silencers I have already swapped my stock pilots out for 27.5's and put my needles on the 4th clip. Had suggestions from 290-320's and that was in 80 degree weather and its now in the 30's so i ordered 320's-350's today seeing as how i will have to go bigger to comphensate for the cold. I am just not sure how much bigger to be very close to be able to break the engine in properly before i can do a plug chop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 So just to get the whole story, why are you breaking in the motor? And just for shits and giggles, here's a table out of the Yamaha FSM dealing with cold weather jetting. Obviously pay no attention to the jet sizes, just the air temp values and the jetting change increment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 So just to get the whole story, why are you breaking in the motor? And just for shits and giggles, here's a table out of the Yamaha FSM dealing with cold weather jetting. Obviously pay no attention to the jet sizes, just the air temp values and the jetting change increment. Blew it up a few months ago and decided to add some much needed mods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 The difficult part is trying to decide where to safely start in regards to my main jet size once its all put back together becuase it has alot more done to it with nothing to go off of other than suggestions seeing as how it was bone stock when i blew it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 How did you blow it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacowils Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 The shitty design of how the stock filter is "supposed" to seal up to the air box failed.. It ran great for a little while then just lost all power and i took the seat off and looked at the air filter and it completely came undone and the motor was sucking ungodly amount of air with the stock jets of course. Started the tear down about an hour later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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