Banshee idling problem

[02Bansheeee]

My banshee isn't idling correctly off half choke. When the rpms are coming down to idle, they high pitched and slow coming down. It's kind of hard to explain, but when it's on choke it idles and idles down perfectly. I really need help on this issue. I'm new to bansheehq. Thanks!

[Surfrjag]

Start by cleaning the carbs. Mainly the pilot jets..

[Strm Trpr]

Welcome to Banshee HQ.

 

The more info you give us the better we can help you figure out your problem.

 

Do you still have the TORS?

[02Bansheeee]

I sprayed out the pilot and mains with carb cleaner. & yes I am running the TORS boxes but they are unhooked. I think I have figured it out though because the person who had it before me had obviously shripped some of the intake screws. I sprayed some carb cleaner around that area earlier and it revved up on both sides. I'll have to retread those stripped holes and see if that solves my problem . I'll post back when I do that.

[richybanshee]

Had a similar problem... maybe was the same problem. 

When I installed pipes, way back in 2005, I disconnected everything related to the TORS and cut the cables only from the big piece at the top of the carbs.

I had not started the bike like in a year and , recently, my sister wanted to use it but the bike would not start and I did not had time to figure it out the problem on that day so long story short... my father took the bike to a mechanic that ended up connecting some of the cables related to the TORS and messed up the idling. A few weeks later I started the bike and it was not idling properly.

 

Problem:

some of the TORS cables where connected and the carbs were out of sync

 

A litlle more of the story

After I disconnected everything related to the TORS the bike was revved up because the mechanic had turned the idling screws way up to try an keep the bike idling. What he did not noticed was that by connecting TORS cables back part of the system was taking over the idling part an messing everything up. 

 

Solution

disconnected the cable that goes to a small black box in front of the pipes

disconnected the cable that goes from the switch in the thumb throttle near the handle bars (behind the radiator)

sync the carbs properly 

(make sure the cables that come off top of the carbs are disconnected as well or cut them off)

 

I suggest you see this short video in youtube so that you now how to properly remove the TORS. Then check your setup.

If that does not work then take your bike to someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[02Bansheeee]

Now that I have done more tests, I realized that the rubber grommets around my pro design boost bottle are ripped in places and when I spray carb cleaner on that, it went down. I think this is my problem? Anyone agree?

[dave5.0]

It's def a prob. Remove the boost bottle and smash it with a hammer. If the intakes are the ones with the nipples sticking up out of them go get some small diameter heater hose that size, some hose clamps, and a stock crossover tube. Put the short pieces of hose on the tube ends then secure them to the intakes. All done. Then work on whatever else is screwed up.

[02Bansheeee]

How do you upload a picture on here? This might help someone solve my problem.

[special06shee]

How do you upload a picture on here? This might help someone solve my problem.

when i use the computer i upload pic to photobucket, then to this site. But 99% of the time i upload through tapatalk(app for phone). Its a sweet app and take 2seconds to upload pics.

[kedge82]

boost bottles are going to make you go through boots every 15 hours of riding at 35 dollars a peice go get the oem crossove pipe. also check your reeds while you are fixing your boots a bad or broken reed will cause simalir issues

[camatv]

torrs wiring has nothing to do with idle.  unless the electrical side of the system is tripped..  only thing torrs does is sense if one of the slides is open and the other is shut. then it engages a rpm limiter.  if your synch is so far off that this happens it will trip the torrs system.  i see this a lot on bikes with it still on there.  ( few these days)

 

another thing i see often is the cable holder in backwards..  the slide relief hole needs to be exposed  not cover'd up by the cable holder.

 

on the torrs boxes the big screw on the back is for idle speed but it needs synched.  then there is a few screws in the front on the cable where it comes in that set your of idle carb synch.  if the torrs idle screws are adjusted to hard they will break the idle stops and never work right again..  an repair manual should explain all of this , except the broken parts that happen

 

just get a delete kit unless you really understand the torrs setup..   they have their own quirks and setup issues..  buy a real carb synch  replace your intake boots ( yes  ripped boots are the problem)  and get a leakdown tester.  there is information on this site on how to build one  i have a slightly different design that i feel works better but any would work well.    the number one rule is  you cannot accurately  jet any 2 stroke if the motor has air leaks.