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Complete new build now override wont shift.


Stroker4501

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Has anyone actually tested there ATF after 1 ride then after 1000 rides?

I find it hard to believe my over powered weed whacker will break down trans fluid faster then the 120k miles on my truck. I've towed through the sand, up mountains, in the mud, at 80mph. Same trans fluid.

Does anyone have any actual facts of type F breaking down in 3 hours?

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Once it hits a certain temp ( cant remember what it is off the top of my head) it breaks down real quick. Its not the miles ,its the temps. Plus the heat breakdown is cumulative. Cars definitely have superior cooling systems to stabilize the temps over a banshee.

 

  As far as how long it lasts,,i have no idea.

 

My solution is to run a fluid that's more heat stable than ATF,,since upgrading the trans cooling on a banshee isn't much of an option.

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The planetary in a automatic is a constant mesh and constantly spinning.

Bearings I can see since there is no side load. But between how hot the automatic clutch packs get, the bands, the torque converter, and the weight it can move. I'm still seeing it hard to believe my quad is breaking it down in a few hours.

Has anyone done any sort of testing? Be it temp, viscosity, actual lab test? I'll take anything.

I'm just thinking out loud, so please if anyone has actual facts please shoot me down. If not I would like to keep the ideas going

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The planetary in a automatic is a constant mesh and constantly spinning.

Bearings I can see since there is no side load. But between how hot the automatic clutch packs get, the bands, the torque converter, and the weight it can move. I'm still seeing it hard to believe my quad is breaking it down in a few hours.

Has anyone done any sort of testing? Be it temp, viscosity, actual lab test? I'll take anything.

I'm just thinking out loud, so please if anyone has actual facts please shoot me down. If not I would like to keep the ideas going

 

Don't know where you came up with it breaking down in a couple of hours. Wet clutches are made to slip, slipping casues friction thus causing heat. The steals between the frictions in your clutch are what heat up. ATF is designed to run at an operating temperature of 175 degrees, 20 degrees more will cut the service life in half. In car the fluid is circulated and cooled, not to mention there is much more fluid in the system. In a banshee there isn't that much fluid, and it never gets cooled. So when your hot lapping your drag bike launching at 8k, when you stop and take off again, etc your clutch is slipping and heating up the steals and oil. The last stock clutch setups I have torn apart recently had discolored steals, both on alky drag bikes, one with lockup, the other without. The one without the lockup was slipping when I pulled it, steals had bad discoloration.

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atf FUCKING SUCKS   simple as that.   it creeps, it breaks down and you loose your lubrication. bearings suffer, internals suffer, clutch wears the f out fast..  220 degrees and it turns to water.  

 

if you cannot afford a 5.99 each qt of castrol 4t 10-40 MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC oil you got problems.   the castrol should last about 4 RIDES  and i mean full on dune trips runing 3 days +.  i change it when i can see a small amount of discoloration OR the bike screws up on a few shifts.  

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Shifter location is key. On my pro modded trans i never had a problem shifted whatsoever regardless of what trans fluid i had. At the recent hq ride i was having alot of trouble shifting the bike while drag racing(something i usually dont do) tyler pointed out my shifter was a bit to low. I made the change and bam o... The bike shifted like a dream. The shifter has to be at the correct height so your foot COMPLETELY disengages from the shifter to allow for the engagement of the next gear.

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