00_Shee Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 My shee hasn't had a very good 2 weeks. Last week it suddenly and completely lost spark. It ended up being the TORS box. Everything TORS removed now. Ran fine for few days, then last night I changed the tranny oil and cleaned and oiled my air filter. I took it for a ride down the road after I finished and it ran great for about 10 mins. I was running through the gears (WOT at times) without any issues. On my way back to the garage it started to misfire slightly in one of the cylinders(I think it started in the right cylinder). I didn't think much of it because it was only 50 degrees out last night and my shee was jetted for 75-85 degree weather. Today, it has gotten worse. I started it up and it ran good for 5 mins then started to misfire in the right cylinder again. I swapped plug caps to opposite cylinders to see if was one of the plug caps, but that seemed to make it worse. Now It will start, idle, and will run strong for 2 mins or so, but then once it starts to get close to operating temp it starts to hesitate and misfire, even sometimes backfire, until it gets to the point it wont even rev and eventually stall. I thought it was just fouling plugs or running really rich, but if I let it cool down, it will fire back up and run fine for a few minutes until it warms up and dies. I'm going to check my coil and coil pick up tmrw. I was wondering if anyone has had similar issues. Also, when I removed the TORS, noticed the insulation around the orange wire going into the coil was damaged and almost broken. I cut and re connected with a wire nut and electrical tape. Don't know if that could have anything to do with it? I'll check the compression too as soon as I get my hands on a tester. Does it sound like it could be a compression issue--loses compression once it heats up? Any comments or suggestions guys? Sry this post is so scatter-minded. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Have you ran it since you fixed the coil wire? Maybe the plugs fouled when TORS took a crap? You already have some other troubleshooting tips covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00_Shee Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Yes I've ran it since I've fixed the orange wire and it ran pretty good. Is it possible that it would it run fine while it was warming up then just go bad if it were the plugs that were fouled? I thought it would run like crap the whole time if the plugs were fouled. If that's the case, I guess I could of over oiled my air filter and now its running rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Put some new plugs in it, and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00_Shee Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Put some new plugs in it, and report back. Today I pulled it out of the garage with the old plugs still in it, it fired right up, I ran it until it was warm and started to spit sputter and backfire. I shut it off and quickly put brand new, correctly gapped plugs in. It fired up and started but I could tell it wasn't running right. It started to have the really bad symptoms within 30 seconds again. Pulled the plugs and they looked rich and they were only in the bike for 90 seconds.. Checking the compression and wires when I have time this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Did you try taking your filter off to see if it clears up? Also, when you start your bike cold, do you use your choke? And, is the tube that connects the choke of the left carb to the right carb installed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00_Shee Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Did you try taking your filter off to see if it clears up? Also, when you start your bike cold, do you use your choke? And, is the tube that connects the choke of the left carb to the right carb installed? Yes, I actually took the filter off before I started it today and ran it with no filter, then with just the main filter then with the secondary filter, all the same resulted. I don't think there is a tube that connects my carbs because I have aftermarket 30mm carbs and they each have a choke. This is just really weird. It ran fine until I did routine maintenance to prevent things like this as now it's running like crap. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 Not saying this is your problem, but a failing stator can be characteristic of your describing. Failure when the stator warms up. Maybe you could check your resistance when stator is cold and check it when stator is hot or if you know someone with a banshee, swap out stator for a test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00_Shee Posted September 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 Not saying this is your problem, but a failing stator can be characteristic of your describing. Failure when the stator warms up. Maybe you could check your resistance when stator is cold and check it when stator is hot or if you know someone with a banshee, swap out stator for a test Yea I'm thinking it's something with ignition, I'm going to have to get a fly wheel puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00_Shee Posted September 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 I'm a noob when it comes to these things, especially electrical systems. It looks like I'm going to just start buying a few things, cuz the bible says when you test resistance on a warm engine it may be inaccurate do to increased resistance caused by heat. Any recommendations where to get a stator and coil? eBay has tons and even bundled packages that seem too-good-to-be-true deals for what are probably junk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebetekbanshee358 Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 They are junk. Stick to oem electronics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 I would go back and use a water resistant butt connector for your coil wire. You crimp them on then shrink them with a lighter. Wire nuts are junk especially in the environment that an atv operates in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted September 22, 2013 Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 Everybody will tell you not to waste money and/or time with those cheapo stators. OEM or I've seen good things said about a company called racetech. I think thats the right name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted September 22, 2013 Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 I'd also replace spark plug cap to ngk rubber style. Clean harness and grounds. Sync carbs. Check reeds. Leak down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00_Shee Posted September 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 Checked compression; ~125psi each cylinder. Carbs appear to be synced when I look through intake window; not sure what type of plug caps these are. In the process of testing the coil now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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