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Question on leakdown test


rbalthas

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So I've assembled my testing kit (freeze plugs, gauge, pump, ect). My question is what do I remove from the motor block before applying the air pressure into the case?

 

I remove the stator cover?

I remove the gear/tranny oil?

I remove the clutch/water pump cover?

Coolant connections & fluid I can keep in?

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Take off stator/flywheel and clutch cover with the pro gear. You need to make sure the seals don't leak.

 

What do you mean "with the pro gear." You mean with torque and removal sequence specs or is there something else at work here that I'm oblivious to.  (Side note: I don't have the book with torque specs and tightening sequence)

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The vent hose is the little black one that's next to the water pump/radiator line?

That line Tee's off and goes down to the case and up towards the radiator. If I disconnect the line from the pump at the Tee I will need to plug the Tee right? Not sure with what I have lying around I'd be able to do that with. Or are you saying pull that line out of the case from the pump area? (I'm not gonna mess stuff up by pulling that out and then pushing it back in?)

 

Is there more to pulling the clutch cover out then draining?

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just put in your exhaust and carb plugs and pressurize it to 6psi......You can just pull the trans dip stick to check to see if it is leaking.

 

If your motor holds 6psi for 6 minutes WITH NO MORE than 1psi loss per minute it is fine.  However I ensure that the motor does not leak at all.....my motor has held 6psi for more than 30 minutes. 

 

The transmission in the banshee should NOT wind up getting pressurized.  The crank area and the transmission are separated in the cases by a wall to keep the bike from pulling trans fluid into the crank and burning it up. 

 

Let us know your findings....

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