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Banshee help with rods


Trenton Tigney

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Well I think you need to use the search function. Stock length rod is 110mm. Yamaha does not use the Same verbiage. They use y29 as the marking for the 110mm rod. The stroker question comes up alot in these forums and you should have no problem finding info about pin location. Not sure how else to explain it other than contact a builder and send them some money.

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is your motor a stock cylinder?  if it has a spacer plate, or cut up domes its a 4 mill ( unless its a 110 rod).

 

if its a CUB  most cubs  and cp cylinders have the stroke. bore they were cast for in the intake area.  that can be a indication also

 

the easy way to measure stroke is to drop the cyl back on  use a pencil or something that wil fit in the plug hole.  mark all the way down.  the rotate it all the way up.  mark there.  measure length in mm and blamo  there ya go

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  • 4 weeks later...

is your motor a stock cylinder? if it has a spacer plate, or cut up domes its a 4 mill ( unless its a 110 rod)

 

if its a CUB most cubs and cp cylinders have the stroke. bore they were cast for in the intake area. that can be a indication also

the easy way to measure stroke is to drop the cyl back on use a pencil or something that wil fit in the plug hole. mark all the way down. the rotate it all the way up. mark there. measure length in mm and blamo there ya go

Well I can't really tell of my domes are cut or not , they don't look like it an from looking at the vitos 4mil polished rod crankshafts they look exactly te same on everything . My cylinder are the athena cylinders. An the rods are 110

Edited by Trenton Tigney
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You can have a 110mm rod, stock 54mm stroke. Or you can have stock 54mm stroke with 115mm long rod.

4mm stroker, 58mm stroke you can have 110mm stock lenght rod or a long rod 115mm.

Do what camatv told you and measure the stroke from a plug hole.

Measure squish also.

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  • 1 month later...

I realized you said you had it figured out, but for the others as well (I see this question a lot);

 

1-your best bet is to analyze everything before just tearing it down. Buy a degree wheel and check a few things with it (related to the crank). Set it to TDC for one cyl, then compare against the other. (using the piston stop method) you can easily check the phasing of the crank (making sure they are 180 deg. from each other). Endless resources out there on this procedure-I'll leave it up to you to research out how to set-up/use one..

 

2-Measure your stroke (many different methods used) but, for common sakes, the strokes are different enough that even if not super accurate measuring is used, you'll still know.

 

With these two quick checks, you'll know the exact condition (timing/phasing) and stroke of your crank...

 

3-Proceed to remove the crank, and measure the rod the best you can (center to center) The stocker is 110 and the first common long rod is 115-again 5mm is a pretty big difference, so even if you are a bit inaccurate-you should still be able to tell.

 

4-All of the standard inspections to bearings/parts at this point

 

Now, if you crank is laying on the bench (or your seeing a used one at a swap meet or something like that) You can eyeball a few things;

 

1-Look at the big end pin on the side of the web- A stocker will have this pin ABOUT an 1/8 of an inch in from the machined ring that's on the side of the web, A 4mm stroker will have the pin just touching this machined ring. This is crude, but you can quickly determine if it is, in fact, stroked.

 

The most common crank variations between stock and the 4mil are as follows;

 

Of course stock

"Long rod" Stock stroke but with a 115mm rod

"4mil" 4mm stoke but with a 110 (stock) rod

"4mil long rod" The most common "4mil" .... 4mm stroke with a 115 (long rod)

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