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Cylinder dropping out - Need help


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Alright here it goes. I have tried all I can think of so I hope you guys can help out.

 

Bike is a 98 Banshee. Airbox modified - open with K&N 2 into 1 filter. Carbs stock mikunis, Vforce 3 reeds, PC pipes, adjustable timing plate set at +4. TORS is eliminated and cleanly. No more PB sensor, thats been taken care of. The stator in it was giving me starting and revving issues - so i stuck an OEM spare I had on it, now this is where i am at.

 

Problem:: Bike idles fine, revs out on both cylinders to about half throttle or so but when pressed any further the RH cylinder stops working. Smack WOT and put ur hand in front of the rh silencer and theres hardly any pressure coming out and very low heat, lh silencer will damn near cook ur hand about 6" away and blows out like no tomorrow. With quick wops of the throttle, the bike revs out fine it seems. both pipes working. both put out equal heat and pressure at idle.

 

What I have done so far::

- I have installed a spark tester with it jumping a 5mm gap in the window, put it in both wires and neither of them loose ignition at any point.

- Compression is about 145 on lh cylinder and about 148 on RH cylinder.

- Leakdown done - passed with flying colors - I just put new crank seals in this engine and this was the 2nd leakdown i've done. passed first on bench and passed this one on the bike after about 10 minutes of run time.

- Carbs are clean - i ran em thru an ultrasonic cleaner, pilots 27.5's, 300 mains, needles on 3rd clip from top. Sync'd with the tool from FAST. I am at about 600ft elevation here in VA so pretty much sea level.

- Swapped stators, old was 200watt aftermarket - swapped to oem, before bike would not rev hardly at all. pickup module gapped at .020 -- have a plastic gauge from B&S .010 - folded it over.

- Changed coil wire plug caps -- no difference, swapped wires, no difference.

 

so all that being said i still cannot cure my problem...not sure whats going on. any advice or help would be appreciated. thanks!

 

EDIT :: Just found out RH pipe has no o-ring in the pipe mounting it to the cylinder. can this cause a drop of the cylinder at high rpm?

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No i havnt seen any issues with the reed cages. I swapped them over as well. Same problem. I will check for issues with the carbs again. I dont think there were washers under the main jets. thats not good so i will start there and we will see where that goes. In the meantime any other sugguestions or oppinions are appreciated as well!

 

Thanks to all for their responses so far. I will update you soon.

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The problem I had showed no obvious issues, it seems the reeds were harder to open than the other cage therefore not enough air was going through.

Thats odd. Glad to know its something to look for tho. Took off the carbs again, clean as a whistle, mains were fine and the washers were present. After reading much more about the float bowls I noticed the bowl for the lwft carb was on the right. When I cleaned them I set them aside and did one at a time as not to mix up parts so never gave it a thought. So I reinstalled them correctly and boom - other cylinder kicked right in at wot like its supposed to. This was a frustrating one for me. This place has so much to offer I cannot thank you all enough for your time and advice. Im glad to have it solved

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