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2005 Dodge Cummins AC recharging


locogato11283

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My 2005 Dodge Cummins AC isn't working worth a shit. It takes fucking forever for it to cool down in there, whereas my work truck is instantly cold.

 

Has anyone ever recharged one of these? Is that the most likely culprit?

 

After 5-10 minutes running down the road, it starts to get pretty cool, but not ice cold.

 

Is this a big deal to do? Can't you just buy the shit at Advance Auto?

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If I were close Tyler I'd do it the right way for you. The stuff at Autozone and Advance is generally trash and does more damage to your system than it's worth. The right way is to replace the drier, evac the whole system, refill with oil and then charge with refrigerant. Generally a recharge isn't THAT expensive from a certified shop so long as there aren't any other issues within the system.

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But does the Oreillys stuff fix leaks like it claims? I bought some for my Motorhome but haven't used it yet. Ac units work good, but not the dash ac. Had it recharged and wasn't long before it was not as cool.

 

Sometimes, yes. Depending on the severity of the leak, BUT. And this is a huge BUT... adding that shit to your system will turn other shops away from fixing it as it really does a number on all the parts. So when your "fix" doesn't fully fix it and you take it in for real service your bill will be higher due to them having to deal with all of that crud. The only RIGHT way to fix AC systems on vehicles is in 3 steps... 1. replace any defective parts, 2. replace o-rings/seals to stop leaks, 3. evacuate and then recharge system using vacuum pump and gauges. Any other way will only give you more issues down the road and or cause you to incur more costs if you have a certified shop work on it.

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Fuck. I guess I'll just call a shop.

 

I've never done shit to this truck except replace an injector about a month ago.

 

This AC problem has been going on for a couple years but I hardly drive it so I just ignore it.

 

Now that it's 100* I want it fixed. Go figure.

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Most likely compressor leaking is what I see the most of out of those models. And the dealers compressor is not worth a dam. I have to get replacement compressors from oriellys. Ours leak. I've been workin for Chrysler for 10 years

Sum bitch. I'm not even going to attempt swapping something like that. I guess it's going to a shop.

 

 

 

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Tyler, you can swap it, just don't connect the electrical connector to it which will keep it from actually pumping (activates the compressor clutch) It'll save you a bit of cash when you take it to the shop then. While you're at it, I'd change the drier too. Tell the shop you've replaced those parts and need an evac, oil fill, and recharge. Shouldn't be more than 150-200$.

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If I were close Tyler I'd do it the right way for you. The stuff at Autozone and Advance is generally trash and does more damage to your system than it's worth. The right way is to replace the drier, evac the whole system, refill with oil and then charge with refrigerant. Generally a recharge isn't THAT expensive from a certified shop so long as there aren't any other issues within the system.

no. no. If a system is leaking you dont dump it and evacuate. It can't pull a vacuum if theres a leak! It just sucks air and moisture in. And damn sure dont dump more oil in it. Lol The only way you lose any significant amount of oil is if you take the compressor off and dump all the oil out. Down below you said the stuff at O'reillys hurts your system??? If it's 134a it doesnt make a damn where you buy it from. I'd personally not mess with any stop leak but nobody will ever ever ever ever know of there's stop leak in a refrigeration system unless you're a part time chemist.

Tyler-- My old 5.9 cummins was really bad about getting a shit of dirt built up on the condensor. The fin spacing on it is smaller than the intercooler so it collects everything. Make sure its clean. Wash it with a water hose the opposite way of air flow if possible. Or at least wash it downward. Try not to spray it straight in to it. A ton of dirt will get clogged right in the center. If its clean and still not cooling grab the lines going in to the cab to the evaporator. The small line should be warm but not crazy hot. The big line should be cold. About 35-50° cold. If its warm its most likely undercharged. Dump some refrigerant in it and get it back where it needs to be. If it makes it another 2-3 yrs then you'd be wasting your time trying to find the leak. If its low again in a month or so, you need to find and repair the leak. I'll send you a PM and can walk you through charging it. Theres nothing to it. Your best bet is to get a real set of gauges to get high and low pressure readings. Print off the 20% coupon for harbor freight and go buy their automotive gauges for $40 if you want. Buying 134a by the cans is outrageous. I just bought a 30lb drum of.it for $99 at Atwoods.

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I would think if it has given you this problem for years, it might be low on freon, but if it was leaking it would have certainly leaked out enough by now to keep the pressure switch from turning on the compressor clutch at all.   therefor only blowing hot air and never cooling. try rinsing out the condenser coil in front of the radiator- very well, from the back forward. Might even run the a/c with water running on the condenser and see if that helps to blow cooler air inside.

 

I've got a lot of Cottonwood trees in my yard and I pull my radiators to back flush my condensers every other year. Same as your home outside unit, that shit needs to be clean to cool properly.

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Ya what Joey said. Don't buy any "system conditioner" or "stop leak" shit. If you just buy the straight R-134a and the little adapter hose from walliworld or autozone you can hook it up. It'll have a little idiot gauge with green and red zones or some shit like that. The adapter will only fit in one place on the line (ports are different sizes). Then run the turd and watch the gauge. If it needs some add it till your good on the gauge. Pretty easy. I'd also check the condenser like a couple guys said. Does this thing have a cabin filter on it? Do you run it in recirc or max whatever you high setting is? Or do you just run it on the regular AC setting?

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